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Old 26th October 2013, 05:34 AM   #1
DEQXter is offline DEQXter  United States
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Default Modifying a round cutout without a center

No wood worker here.

Probably been asked and answered a dozen times but that 2mm step off between the baffle and driver I was willing to overlook a few months back is now bugging the hell out of me and want to fix it.

I was doing my first scratch build and was in too damn a hurry to stuff the guts into the enclosure and hear my brainchild--so in cutting the holes just plunged on w/o getting the recess right.

Speakers sound terrific so really a matter of aesthetics at this point. I'm stumped--should I create a new center hole by drilling screw holes through the recess and using some some built up scrap to create a new center that's about flush with the cutting plane so that I can rout the recess deeper or is there some affordable combo of edge guided bits that will allow me to shave a couple of mm deeper. The fit between the woofer and its cutout is good and don't want to widen it too much to get the depth right--to me thats just trading one defect for another.

Appreciate any advice.
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Old 26th October 2013, 11:38 AM   #2
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I'd stick or screw a 10mm ply board behind it (do you have rear access?) and then iterate the location of the center point using compasses or string and pencil.
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Old 26th October 2013, 12:51 PM   #3
DUG is offline DUG  Canada
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Could you work with something like this?:

Router Bushing Set

I know your depth is not the same as what they are working with but that is the idea.

You could make another board stack to act as a guide for this setup using the router bushing set.

Or make two guide pins on the router base. see jpg

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File Type: jpg router-follower.JPG (34.0 KB, 203 views)
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Old 30th November 2013, 09:49 AM   #4
dmag is offline dmag  United States
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Your best ,most accurate bet is to use a bearing guided rabbiting bit,then if its smaller than your rabbit.clean the rest by hand.
2 if depth I'd sufficient, which I doubt use a flush trim bit with the bearing on shank.
They can be had in 1/4 length.
If you need to make a new center and can access the back of the baffle, here's a couple ways to get the center..this wold be my last reort.

Printable instructions for finding the center of a circle with any right angled object
Finding the center of a circle or arc with compass and straightedge or ruler - Math Open Reference
You could also build it up with veneer and turn a flaw into a plus.
Veneer is easy.
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Old 30th November 2013, 10:46 AM   #5
tvrgeek is offline tvrgeek  United States
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Happens all the time. Best is to bolt in a backer board so you do have a center. Now, finding that center is a bit of a challenge.

Some router edge guides have adjustable rollers, but they tend to be not the best.
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Old 30th November 2013, 01:31 PM   #6
dmag is offline dmag  United States
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Be sure to orient the board with an arrow or something or you WILL be off center.
I don't care for bushings. They also have to have the orientation concerns as they tend to be slopped than I like.
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Old 30th November 2013, 05:44 PM   #7
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Hi,

If its a bassmid its not worth worrying about.
Zaph|Audio

rgds, sreten.
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Old 30th November 2013, 06:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sreten View Post
Hi,

If its a bassmid its not worth worrying about.
Zaph|Audio

rgds, sreten.
+1 on that.

The only flush mounting that I would worry about is for the typical 104mm flange tweeter. Even the proud flange of a woofer right next to the tweeter is not really a big deal because the edge is sweeping away.
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Old 6th December 2013, 07:35 PM   #9
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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how about:
- make a pattern jig the diameter of the driver flange,
- mount over the driver still in the enclosure and clamp to enclosure and work bench
- remove driver , stuff enclosure with newspaper or rags to reduce dust/chips
- if you've used threaded inserts or T-nuts for mounting driver remove them now
- use mortising/pattern following bit set to required depth, and one or two quick passes should do the trick
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