Fully Securing Air Core Inductors to Circuit Boards

[Cal Weldon]

so I'd like to use the no-acid silicone.

I find silicone the one that needs the most surface prep.

the stuff can be easily "popped-off" from whatever surface it is trying to adhere to

See below

Whatever glue you use, for better adherence be sure to "roughen up", with some kind of abrasive, any smooth PC board surface underneath the coil.
Charles

 

[PrecisionAudio]

p audio
have you finished removing the crossovers and inspected the board for bad solders?
i might be making an assumption but are you trying to glue the coil to resolve a problem like cutting out or popping audio? as a service tech i've seen many an easy repair made impossible with the liberal application of all kinds of stuff epoxy, silicone,crazy glue...
you may want to explore more serviceable solutions like cable ties to hold the coils to the board...
in as far as glue guns the high temp industrial grad glues are safe(as in they won't hurt your enameled wire coils)but watch out for the tip it does get hot enough to damage enameled wire!(personal experience!!)

To answer the first question, no, I must have been unclear and my bad. Sorry about that to all in the thread.

The "old crossovers" had the two inductor coils on each one release from the circuit board. This may or may not have been exacerbated by the thief doing barrel rolls while trying to escape arrest. Ya know, now that I think about shows like COPS, I wonder if I could get some dash cam videos of the chase...

BUT, prior to that, I did notice that the "tweeter level selection jumper" didn't function properly after about two years of use. Sometimes the tweeter of, say the left crossover, would kick in at the proper level and stay there (ie perfect stereo!). But, this only happened after using the audio system for a while (heat related?). Anyway, Polk agreed that the traces to/from the tweeter jumper positions were likely cracked a tiny bit.

I was lucky to get two new crossovers because the model was discontinued a while back. Bummer as I do truly like the sound of the SR6500 product.

Therefore, I'm at the point of wondering how I can fully secure the inductors on the new crossovers to prevent them from releasing not due to thievery but just aging. I won't worry about broken traces just yet... Yep, I could use zip ties no problem but I'd have to drill holes.

As for taking apart the "old crossovers," will do so when the new ones are installed and prove their ability. I'm dealing with some other vehicle problems and that is why I haven't revisited my thread in a while (sorry again).

BTW, since I do think the "old crossovers" failed due to bad traces, I had an extremely similar thing happen with my vehicle's nighttime dashboard lighting "slider" that controlled the dash/interior brightness. It started flickering off, on, off, on, etc, and after removing the module and using a magnifying glass to examine all solder points, MANY WERE CRACKED! I thought it was the "slider" itself but no, it was not. The design was that two circuit boards were connected together via around eight (8) solder joints to "communicate" between the two small boards (a crummy way to mechanically accomplish that bonding!). So, I just resoldered the unit and it has functioned perfectly since. The dealer wanted around $200 for a replacement too. The bottom line was that the two boards had flexed slightly over years of driving, bumps, etc and the solder joints had cracked ever so slightly.

 

[PrecisionAudio]

Whatever glue you use, for better adherence be sure to "roughen up", with some kind of abrasive, any smooth PC board surface underneath the coil.

Charles

Yah. Same thing with other applications like paints. But, I worry about "erasing" a hidden copper trace, heh.

 

[PrecisionAudio]

Nobody mentioned to me about this product to try and I'd like to know what everyone thinks:

Product: AC-970 Series
Type: Multiple Colors
Solution: AC-970 Series Silicone is a strong, high-performance, neutral cure, 100% RTV silicone sealant. This formulation offers impressive unprimed adhesion with a wide range of materials. The unique non-acetic chemistry will not corrode or react with common building materials and most I.G. units. Tack-free in 15 minutes and cures fast without any strong, offensive odor. Cured sealant stays rubbery from -40°F (-40°C) to 250° (121°C) and is virtually unaffected by sunlight, ozone and weather or temperature extremes.

This link will take you to the above product:
Silicone Glue, Silicone Adhesives, Flexible Silicone

I'll shoot them an email about using the product to adhere an enamel to a circuit board. Point being, would the product destroy the enamel.

Thanks again!