Repair Failed Miter Joints in Speaker Cabinet - diyAudio
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Old 11th July 2013, 04:54 PM   #1
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Default Repair Failed Miter Joints in Speaker Cabinet

All four miter joints on both particle board speaker cabinets have failed -- split open. I don't know why or how (used equip). Doesn't seem like water damage. Cabinets are 24 x 11 x 14. Speaker systems will be acoustic suspension, so the slightly altered volume isn't really critical

I am thinking of sawing out the miter joints with a table saw and dado blade by building/using a big 45 degree jig/sled to keep the box corners in alignment. Then inserting glued shims in place of the sawn-out miter joints, and finally patching up those corners and numerous other dings with epoxy filler. Then comes the sanding and re-veneering.

Some woodworker said he would start from scratch, but I think I can do this type of work. I have a Hitachi portable table saw and some other ww equipment. I'll have to build the relatively large jig and sled, probably for only this single purpose, and have someone help stabilize the table saw itself while using the jig. I can figure that part out. But does this seem do-able ?

BTW: Why don't they build speaker cabinets with box joints or splined miter joints?

Thanks for suggestions.

Last edited by FredsBands; 11th July 2013 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 11th July 2013, 11:00 PM   #2
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Pics of damage?
I guess you need the experience or challenge of repairing a miter joint? Just don't shoot your eye out!
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Old 12th July 2013, 09:50 PM   #3
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I'll try to get some pics of one corner by e4nd of the weekend. All miter joints look pretty much the same, same gap and fairly uniform.

I've been doing numerous thought experiments on how to fix this. Suggestions welcomed.
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Old 12th July 2013, 11:07 PM   #4
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Pull the drivers, use clamps on the outside and and cleats on the inside. Oh and proper glue helps, I use carpenters yellow. Yours might have been made with hot glue?
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Old 12th July 2013, 11:18 PM   #5
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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Typical clear epoxy (1hr) is used for repairs where something was previously glued.

So happens repaired a drawer box for neighbor last night, easy to work with, takes forever to dry though.
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Old 12th July 2013, 11:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
Pull the drivers, use clamps on the outside and and cleats on the inside. Oh and proper glue helps, I use carpenters yellow. Yours might have been made with hot glue?
I don't think clamps would budge the sides; looks like lots of wood particles from the separation are getting in the way. I tried it with two clamps on one side. That's why I think sawing them out would help. These are name brand speakers from the sixties, and I'm pretty sure they didn't use hot glue. I have a bunch of TiteBond tan glue here.

I will have to buy/borrow many clamps for this project.

Last edited by FredsBands; 12th July 2013 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 12th July 2013, 11:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ODougbo View Post
Typical clear epoxy (1hr) is used for repairs where something was previously glued.

So happens repaired a drawer box for neighbor last night, easy to work with, takes forever to dry though.
My trick in using epoxy is to use the exact portion of hardener; i actually measure it with two plastic hypodermics with milliliter indications.
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Old 14th July 2013, 09:15 PM   #8
Jsixis is offline Jsixis  United States
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if you can knock the bottom and top pieces off you can then run the wood through your table saw to trim off the excess pieces

if you really like your speakers buy a sheet of quality ply wood and make better cabinets
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Old 14th July 2013, 09:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
Pull the drivers, use clamps on the outside and and cleats on the inside. Oh and proper glue helps, I use carpenters yellow.
+1
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Old 14th July 2013, 11:06 PM   #10
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Sometimes, depending on the nature of the joint failure and the quality of the underlying material you might be better off to put your time and effort into building new enclosures to house the existing drivers and crossover.
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