How to get a high gloss black finish (near piano black)

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
I know all about prepping the area such as sanding, filling the surface, etc.

I just need to figure out what paints to use. I went to homedepot and the ONLY thing they said that would give a hi-gloss black finish would be this BEHR | PREMIUM PLUS Interior/Exterior High-Gloss Enamel Paint - Ultra Pure White, 946mL | Home Depot Canada ignore that it's white, they had one that was black I just didn't see it online.
Has anyone used this, or what do you think of this? Any ideas where in Canada would be the best place to go for piano black paint?

For the first coat, would just a standard oil based grey primer work?

I have a compressor, don't have a paint gun, but that is an option for application. Is there any reason not to spray on the black paint?
 
Are you painting wood or metal? High gloss on either for me has involved a compatible primer (to seal the wood, or on metal an etching metal to prep the surface), paint (gloss or semi-gloss) followed by a high gloss clear coat compatible with the paint.
 
Are you painting wood or metal? High gloss on either for me has involved a compatible primer (to seal the wood, or on metal an etching metal to prep the surface), paint (gloss or semi-gloss) followed by a high gloss clear coat compatible with the paint.

MDF.

Yeah I figured I'd just go grey oil based primer, then a high-gloss black paint, and then a high gloss clear coat with tons of sanding in between each coat to keep it perfectly smooth. Just need to find a black paint that works well and then pick out a primer and clear coat that are compatible with it.

I know lacquer works and is the traditional way to get piano black, but it takes many many coats and a long time so was wondering if there are better options.
 
#2 to Semperfi's suggestion - if you're anywhere near a sizable body of water, fresh or salt, I'd look for a local boat builder - they might even do a small job like this for far less money than the total investment in equipment, materials and time it would take for a newbie to equal their results.
 
I'm not a wood working expert. However, as I understand shellac is referred to as being either "shellac" or "dewaxed shellac". The "dewaxed shellac" is the version that is considered the universal sealer / everything sticks to it / it sticks to everything variety. I would read the label carefully to see if it is listed as being "dewaxed", if it does not say then I would assume it contains some wax and you might want to look for a different one since you plan to paint over it.
 
Is there something "better than", or at least alternative to shellac for sealing MDF - yes, certainly if you're not worried about bleed through of stains, and planning on building several color / top coats - ranging from the consumer products available at the likes of Rona, Home Depot, Home Hardware, etc. to industrial products for the commercial cabinetry / woodworking trades, available through regional distributors.

When you mix the phrases "high gloss" and "piano black paint" in the same thread, I think of a finish with depth and durability. You'll probably want to look at the polyurethanes, tinted lacquers or varnishes, as opposed to acrylics, latex, or even marine grade alkyd enamels which are still available in some locations.

Exactly where in Canada are you located? That can affect access to the commercial grade products.

There's certainly no reason not to spray the sealer/primer, color and top coats, but you will want to invest in a decent gun, water trap/filter for a standard compressor based system, or a turbine powered HVLP system. Be prepared to spend a few hours of practice to get it right, particularly if wrapping around curved profile edges, at least a few coats to build depth, and lots of polishing / buffing of the final couple of coats. Altogether the painting can take much more time than the fabrication.
 
Last edited:
For sure my deepest looking finishes have been with lacquer, the interesting thing about it is the coats all melt into each other to become one layer. This posed a problem for me one time I let a speaker I was working on outside to dry and the sun hit part of it and it blistered. To fix it I had to sand all of it off. The finish is quite stunning, however care must be taken as it is never is completely cured and will react with things placed on it. Now some of the new water-based urethanes made today are pretty impressive, easy to work with , easy to clean, and produce a durable finish. The other thing about MDF for some reason my joint lines never completely go away, since I veneer about everything I build it has not been a problem but I am sure there is some trick.

Bill
 
Ok based on what I have access to basically my only option was high gloss black enamel or high gloss black lacquer. I went with the lacquer. Rust-Oleum Specialty | Lacquer - Gloss Black | Home Depot Canada

What should I seal the MDF with? The guys at home depot had no idea... lol. Should I just use an oil based primer, or should I use this? Zinsser | Shellac -Clear -473Ml | Home Depot Canada

It does not say if it is dewaxed or not. Since it doesn't say dewaxed does this mean it has some wax?

Any suggestions on what grits of sandpaper to get to do each coat?
 
Last edited:
For sure my deepest looking finishes have been with lacquer, the interesting thing about it is the coats all melt into each other to become one layer. This posed a problem for me one time I let a speaker I was working on outside to dry and the sun hit part of it and it blistered. To fix it I had to sand all of it off. The finish is quite stunning, however care must be taken as it is never is completely cured and will react with things placed on it. Now some of the new water-based urethanes made today are pretty impressive, easy to work with , easy to clean, and produce a durable finish. The other thing about MDF for some reason my joint lines never completely go away, since I veneer about everything I build it has not been a problem but I am sure there is some trick.

Bill

What did you put under the black lacquer? Any sealer or primer? Did you put a top coat of a clear high gloss, or did you just sand the lacquer and it gave you the high gloss finish that you wanted?
 
Ok I have found this zinsser bin primer sealer Zinsser | Zinnser Bin Primer -946Ml | Home Depot Canada

Would this work good to seal the mdf before I put on the black lacquer? Is it ok to paint this on with a brush?

I could also use the same stuff but in a spray can, it's a bit more money Zinsser | 369g BIN Primer Sealer Spray | Home Depot Canada

IMHO, I would say that's what you want. Shellac goes on smooth with a good fine brush. Be sure to grab some denatured alcohol to clean your brush and thin the shellac to a workable consistency that you like if needed, it is usually pretty heavy in the can.

One thing I learned working with shellac in the past is it dries really fast as compared to poly, it comes back to life with denatured alcohol or with more shellac but I found I needed to work with small batches and not "mess around". :)
 
I think you were right to go for lacquer rather than enamel. You would have struggled flatting and polishing the enamel.

Zinsser BIN is a good primer/sealer if a touch expensive. Well it is over here anyway. Without a spraygun setup I would say brush or roller it as you will go through spray cans too fast and this will cost too much.

Take your time and you should have a good result.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.