'BUMP'
Latest additional equipment added; 40 year old like new Rotel RP2500 Teak plinth beltdrive S-tonearm turntable for my vintage Pickering XV15/400D MM cartridge, Philips CDR785 recorded with 3 disk-cd player & Pioneer Elite series DV59AVi DVD single for DVD-A & SACD compatibility...
Plus I already had a Sony MD recorder unit with additional travelmate unit for digtal CD/vinyl quality recordings on the go. Thats why I'm runn'in three pre-amps thru a passive attenuator box.
Jeff
Latest additional equipment added; 40 year old like new Rotel RP2500 Teak plinth beltdrive S-tonearm turntable for my vintage Pickering XV15/400D MM cartridge, Philips CDR785 recorded with 3 disk-cd player & Pioneer Elite series DV59AVi DVD single for DVD-A & SACD compatibility...
Plus I already had a Sony MD recorder unit with additional travelmate unit for digtal CD/vinyl quality recordings on the go. Thats why I'm runn'in three pre-amps thru a passive attenuator box.
Jeff
'BUMP'
Latest additional equipment added; Mitsubishi dual/mono 10 series pwr amp with matching pre, 20 series FM tuner & full auto Mitsu TT plus a Pioneer p-751 DD turntable. Looks like the vintage Rotel RP-2500 is out, to bad just checked it out recently with the Pickering XV15/400D and it sounds nice with just the Mitsu amp/pre & the tube buffer...
Latest additional equipment added; Mitsubishi dual/mono 10 series pwr amp with matching pre, 20 series FM tuner & full auto Mitsu TT plus a Pioneer p-751 DD turntable. Looks like the vintage Rotel RP-2500 is out, to bad just checked it out recently with the Pickering XV15/400D and it sounds nice with just the Mitsu amp/pre & the tube buffer...
Major problem discovered during early stage hook-up. Apt Holman preamp will only pass a very weak signal from all inputs! Damn paid top dollar for this unit because it was "trouble free" & check out buy pro's with the prior owner. It has not been in use for the past approx. five years, any suggestions for a likely issue I might be able to find and fix...
Any help would be very welcome I am not much of a knowledgeable individual when it comes to electronics! Whats the most likely sub-system at fault that I could have checked out first. You know how expensive diagnostics are these days.
Any responses welcome!
Thks Jeff
Any help would be very welcome I am not much of a knowledgeable individual when it comes to electronics! Whats the most likely sub-system at fault that I could have checked out first. You know how expensive diagnostics are these days.
Any responses welcome!
Thks Jeff
One of the basics of troubleshooting is to narrow down the location of the problem by signal tracing and signal injection. If it has a tape monitor loop, first make sure the switch is in the correct position, since that might account for a very weak signal. Then see if sound comes out of "tape out" when inputs are selected. Something like an old ghetto blaster with line level inputs would be suitable. If you get sound from line level inputs, but not the phono preamp (assuming the unit has passive switching), that suggests a power supply problem.
If there are cables inside the preamp that go into plugs rather than being soldered, try unplugging and replugging them. Also, work all the pots back and forth a bunch of times, and any switches that are in the signal path. I've come across intermittent connectors and pots and switches before now, usually on Japanese stuff. I have also seen connections that someone forgot to solder; those can work fine for years, then become intermittent. Cold solder joints are also a possibility, but not a common problem in my experience.
Does it have a fuse? If it has a power cord that plugs in, is it seated all the way?
If there are cables inside the preamp that go into plugs rather than being soldered, try unplugging and replugging them. Also, work all the pots back and forth a bunch of times, and any switches that are in the signal path. I've come across intermittent connectors and pots and switches before now, usually on Japanese stuff. I have also seen connections that someone forgot to solder; those can work fine for years, then become intermittent. Cold solder joints are also a possibility, but not a common problem in my experience.
Does it have a fuse? If it has a power cord that plugs in, is it seated all the way?
Dangus Thks
I have a basic setup ready now, so I'll plug a cd player into the tape loop input and connect the tape out to the amp if I get good signal then I'll try both the CD and phone inputs again from the main output and the tape record position output RCA's. First I'll look around inside I just assumed if a fuse was blown I'd get no signal not even a weak one from the main outputs. Probably a bad assumption.
Will have to make time tomorrow and I'll get back to you...
Thks again for the feedback.
I have a basic setup ready now, so I'll plug a cd player into the tape loop input and connect the tape out to the amp if I get good signal then I'll try both the CD and phone inputs again from the main output and the tape record position output RCA's. First I'll look around inside I just assumed if a fuse was blown I'd get no signal not even a weak one from the main outputs. Probably a bad assumption.
Will have to make time tomorrow and I'll get back to you...
Thks again for the feedback.
Finally testing with two stereo amps driving separate (full signal) main spk sets. From a (Yamaha 80 pre with dual RCA output sets).
Also have to test out a dual 8" pro sub-cabinet, each 8" sub will have its own amp channel supporting the dual set L/R main spks towers. Later the main twr sets will have a Hi-side/low-side signal set divided between the two individual spk cabinets per set as listed above.
Looks like the sub woofers will probably have a 250hz low pass setting. But given the choice I'd like to try 300hz. However maybe lwr like 200hz; because the Yam NS500 are supporting the main (low stereo signals) and they have 12" carbon-fiber woofers with great bass but they can get boomy way down low...
Opitions welcome on some of these active crossover limits, the main hi-pass Zu Union spk set with a bottom freq. 500hz; the Yamaha NS's set from 150hz up thru 12,000hz, these can also be a little harsh way up also; then the sub unit, set @ 250hz dwn to maybe 40hz?
Also have to test out a dual 8" pro sub-cabinet, each 8" sub will have its own amp channel supporting the dual set L/R main spks towers. Later the main twr sets will have a Hi-side/low-side signal set divided between the two individual spk cabinets per set as listed above.
Looks like the sub woofers will probably have a 250hz low pass setting. But given the choice I'd like to try 300hz. However maybe lwr like 200hz; because the Yam NS500 are supporting the main (low stereo signals) and they have 12" carbon-fiber woofers with great bass but they can get boomy way down low...
Opitions welcome on some of these active crossover limits, the main hi-pass Zu Union spk set with a bottom freq. 500hz; the Yamaha NS's set from 150hz up thru 12,000hz, these can also be a little harsh way up also; then the sub unit, set @ 250hz dwn to maybe 40hz?
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Still dialing in this setup...
Had a tuf year with my Health. Just a system overview that's up to date.
My Muti turntable (4), Cassette (analog playback) Nakamichi single CD/Sony MD/Philips 3 disk CD/CD recorder/Pioneer SACD/DVD unit (digital media) running thru multi-preamps with a (volume stepped attenuator final passive control switching unit)feeding out separate Hi/Low signals. SAE para EQ/31 band Nady Pro-EQ to individual SAE Xover/Nady Pro-Xover then the Hi/Low signals are Bi-amped to separate Hi/Low speaker sets listed below.
Primary turntable Yamaha PX3 linear tonearm with $1400.00 AK(handbuilt) mid gain/MC cartridge, via hybrid/tubed dedicated Jolida MK II phono line stage, with the other mentioned source units directed thru two separate preamps all switched controlled from the above mentioned custom passive control unit with the signals being split to the SAE EQ/Xover (Hi-side) and to the 2nd tier 31 band 1/3 octave Pro EQ/Pro Xover(Low-side)units.
Split stereo signals are then bi-amped from Hi/Low feeds (Counterpoint 12 tubed Hybrid/Mitsubishi A30 Dual Mono 2 channel amps) into what amount’s to bi-wired (L/R) 10 driver speaker towers. Utilizing a set of Yamaha NR500 large 3-way bookshelf (Low-side) positioned on top of the ZU Union 2-way single axis full tower cabinet size (HI-side), working together as one left tower/one right tower system. 1st tier 85 watts (Counterpoint Low-side) signals delivered to the Yamaha 3-ways 6 ohm speaker portion and the 2nd tier 110 watts (Mitsu/Dual HI-side) signals going to the ZU 8 ohm set plus an additional Pro series Dual 8 inch Woofer slotted cabinet powered by a NAD 2200 2 channel amp capable of pushing 300 watts per channel to each woofer/driver. I. E. (65 Hz and below so as not to fully down load the Yamaha carbon fiber 12” speakers with these throaty low freq. signals).
I E: This is an original setup developed by me in an attempt to solve several home entertainment/stereo sound quality conflicts. These tower units will be utilizing there 5 individual drivers per channel plus the Pro series dual 8 inch independently slotted sub cabinet in a overall system Tri-Amped configuration. This in theory will give each individual speaker cabinet it’s maximum signal output quality across there individual ideal frequency ranges. I.E. Exactly how the original designer intended each of these sets individual components to operate at there best, I hope.
Had a tuf year with my Health. Just a system overview that's up to date.
My Muti turntable (4), Cassette (analog playback) Nakamichi single CD/Sony MD/Philips 3 disk CD/CD recorder/Pioneer SACD/DVD unit (digital media) running thru multi-preamps with a (volume stepped attenuator final passive control switching unit)feeding out separate Hi/Low signals. SAE para EQ/31 band Nady Pro-EQ to individual SAE Xover/Nady Pro-Xover then the Hi/Low signals are Bi-amped to separate Hi/Low speaker sets listed below.
Primary turntable Yamaha PX3 linear tonearm with $1400.00 AK(handbuilt) mid gain/MC cartridge, via hybrid/tubed dedicated Jolida MK II phono line stage, with the other mentioned source units directed thru two separate preamps all switched controlled from the above mentioned custom passive control unit with the signals being split to the SAE EQ/Xover (Hi-side) and to the 2nd tier 31 band 1/3 octave Pro EQ/Pro Xover(Low-side)units.
Split stereo signals are then bi-amped from Hi/Low feeds (Counterpoint 12 tubed Hybrid/Mitsubishi A30 Dual Mono 2 channel amps) into what amount’s to bi-wired (L/R) 10 driver speaker towers. Utilizing a set of Yamaha NR500 large 3-way bookshelf (Low-side) positioned on top of the ZU Union 2-way single axis full tower cabinet size (HI-side), working together as one left tower/one right tower system. 1st tier 85 watts (Counterpoint Low-side) signals delivered to the Yamaha 3-ways 6 ohm speaker portion and the 2nd tier 110 watts (Mitsu/Dual HI-side) signals going to the ZU 8 ohm set plus an additional Pro series Dual 8 inch Woofer slotted cabinet powered by a NAD 2200 2 channel amp capable of pushing 300 watts per channel to each woofer/driver. I. E. (65 Hz and below so as not to fully down load the Yamaha carbon fiber 12” speakers with these throaty low freq. signals).
I E: This is an original setup developed by me in an attempt to solve several home entertainment/stereo sound quality conflicts. These tower units will be utilizing there 5 individual drivers per channel plus the Pro series dual 8 inch independently slotted sub cabinet in a overall system Tri-Amped configuration. This in theory will give each individual speaker cabinet it’s maximum signal output quality across there individual ideal frequency ranges. I.E. Exactly how the original designer intended each of these sets individual components to operate at there best, I hope.
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