Greetings,
I'm getting close to mounting two pair of 12" woofers, two per
on a set of MDF baffles. They are being flush mounted with a rubber, cork type gasket. Any thoughts on how best to fasten them? Should I keep it simple and screw or through bolt them? Or...would it make more sense to come up with some type of rear magnet mounting system. They are an open baffle design so if a rear magnet approach is better it seems to make sense to keep the mass down.
Your thoughts?
Thank you
I'm getting close to mounting two pair of 12" woofers, two per
on a set of MDF baffles. They are being flush mounted with a rubber, cork type gasket. Any thoughts on how best to fasten them? Should I keep it simple and screw or through bolt them? Or...would it make more sense to come up with some type of rear magnet mounting system. They are an open baffle design so if a rear magnet approach is better it seems to make sense to keep the mass down.Your thoughts?
Thank you
T-nuts have been known to come loose, and it can be a monumental pain in the a$$ when they do. It happened to a buddy of mine about 10yrs ago with a pair of Cain & Cain Abbys, and when I was in the retail trade, on bottom of Linn Kabers for attaching of KuStone base plinths - almost a completely blind fitment.
I'd suggest (external) threaded inserts over any of the barbed / spiked knock-in T-Nuts.
E,
I came across this in some threads a while back. Cant get at them right now but will do so and follow back up.
Until then...Kindest,
Marko
yeah, that's definitely one of those "I remember seeing it somewhere on the internet, but damned if I can find it now"
basically the idea is to fabricate some sort of cradle / bracket to clamp around the magnet / motor assembly - generally the most massive part of the driver, to bear the weight and attach to enclosure, and lightly seal the frame to baffle with foam / cork etc.
I've more often seen this technique used in open baffle arrangements.
I have been using these for several years without any problem. Just make sure you drill the recommended hole size.
#8-32 Hurricane Nuts 50 Pcs. 081-1080
#8-32 Hurricane Nuts 50 Pcs. 081-1080
Threaded brass insert made for wood with a dab of epoxy while installing work well. Only use the type with external threading and not the type that are hammered into a hole. I think you would have to destroy the wood to get them out. Look up threaded fasteners or go to perhaps McMaster Carr and you will find them. T-nuts have the greatest chance of falling out, they are only pressed into the wood slightly and have cause many of use much grief in locations where they either can't easily be replaced or fall into a cavity where you can't retrieve them. They can make an awful racket if that happens! Your application of an open back is not as critical as you will always have access to them, but still I wouldn't use them.
Yup, whatever floats the boat. You can also use a dab of subfloor glue, epoxy or WHY. Mind you I would only use them if they were laying around, I wouldn't buy them when there are threaded inserts as previously mentioned.
Thanks everyone for your input.
Crisb, glad to hear that you've seen this and thanks for providing a brief description. My build is an OB and that's why I posed the question. I've spent a couple hours pursuing some OB photo sites again looking for a good example and have come up short.. Based on this I'm drawing the conclusion that since so few are using this technique it may not be worth the effort.
Thanks again for all the replies!
Marko
Crisb, glad to hear that you've seen this and thanks for providing a brief description. My build is an OB and that's why I posed the question. I've spent a couple hours pursuing some OB photo sites again looking for a good example and have come up short.. Based on this I'm drawing the conclusion that since so few are using this technique it may not be worth the effort.
Thanks again for all the replies!
Marko
Not worth the effort or no one wants to go first.
I have never seen a speaker mounted by its magnet myself, but I work in pro audio, perhaps it happens more in hifi. That said, I have seen compression drivers mounted to a wooden frame with the throat just sitting in the throat of the horn molding, but I think that is a different situation from a woofer.
But dare to lead, come up with pros and cons. Just what benefits might this alternative provide? And what are the negatives? Thinking from my own experience, mounting speakers the conventional way, using screws through mounting holes on the frame edge, offers some plusses. They all tend to have a more or less standard hole pattern, allowing speakers to be changed readily. Also, the speaker will perforce be held tight to the baffle, reducing potential for buzz and vibration. And it is utterly simple. I would think the magnet clamping hardware would have to be relatively complex, and considering the variety of shapes and sizes of magnet structures, keeping it adaptable might be a challenge. Maybe not though.
I have never seen a speaker mounted by its magnet myself, but I work in pro audio, perhaps it happens more in hifi. That said, I have seen compression drivers mounted to a wooden frame with the throat just sitting in the throat of the horn molding, but I think that is a different situation from a woofer.
But dare to lead, come up with pros and cons. Just what benefits might this alternative provide? And what are the negatives? Thinking from my own experience, mounting speakers the conventional way, using screws through mounting holes on the frame edge, offers some plusses. They all tend to have a more or less standard hole pattern, allowing speakers to be changed readily. Also, the speaker will perforce be held tight to the baffle, reducing potential for buzz and vibration. And it is utterly simple. I would think the magnet clamping hardware would have to be relatively complex, and considering the variety of shapes and sizes of magnet structures, keeping it adaptable might be a challenge. Maybe not though.
Besides T nuts (I have had hurricane nuts twist), I have used well-nuts. These are a expanding rubber plug with a brass insert. I press in my T-nuts with a c-clamp and epoxy.
Doing a magnet mount is sure possible. I have seen this done on mid-woofers, but not on subs. I don't think it is as much an issue.
Doing a magnet mount is sure possible. I have seen this done on mid-woofers, but not on subs. I don't think it is as much an issue.
I dunno about not being worth the effort, and never having tried it myself, can only assume it would be a bit of a bother, depending of course on the dimension / geometry of the motor / frame assemblies.
This is about as close as I ever got, which was fun enough, and don're really want to think about sculpting a full cradle mount for something like the Lowthers
Attachments
Very impressive chrisb! ...love the idea of a "full ranger" OB combo. As I get more experienced/knowledgeable with this stuff, I'm thinking that design will see it's way onto my bucket list.
Are you limiting the LF driver passively and running the Lowther full range? What is the base driver?
Are you limiting the LF driver passively and running the Lowther full range? What is the base driver?
system belongs to Bud Purvine - used with woofers consisting of dual SDX7s per side in TL enclosures
the lower driver in photo is Eminence Beta 8 - the exact details of XO I'm not familiar with (or maybe Bud has described it, but it when in through one ear and ... )
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