Adapter for Smaller Driver in Existing Hole - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Design & Build > Construction Tips

Construction Tips Construction techniques and tips

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 30th December 2012, 08:17 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Weed, CA, USA
Default Adapter for Smaller Driver in Existing Hole

I've got a 12" driver that I want to put in an existing enclosure with a 12" ID hole. Of course, the driver needs an 11" dia. hole and will just about slide through the existing one. Is there any alternative to making a new face for the box with a new sheet of MDF?

I'd love some sort of adapter, but I can't figure out a sufficiently strong way to make one without a serious woodshop -- that I do not have. Premade products that cost less than a new sheet of MDF and labor might be considered.

Thanks!
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st December 2012, 04:29 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Dona paula, Goa
Take a thicker square piece of plywood and make a step, make the hole sized for the driver and thin the plywood with a round ring thick to go in the bigger hole. Nut bolt it to the mdf.

Gajanan Phadte
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st December 2012, 07:02 PM   #3
dangus is offline dangus  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver Island
Temporarily screw a scrap piece of plywood or MDF across the opening from the inside. Screw another piece to it to create a surface that's flush with the baffle. Locate and drill the center. Use a router to enlarge the cutout to clear the new driver. Get two pieces of MDF, clamp or screw them so they're side by side. Cut the new driver opening in this panel. Trim it so it will fit on the backside of the old baffle. Screw and glue or clamp and glue it in place.
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st December 2012, 07:40 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Weed, CA, USA
Thanks for the answers guys. I think I will go for the plug and cover approach. Like so... [C = MDF Cover, P = MDF Plug, D = Driver, # = Existing]
Code:
###
I.#
n.#C
s.PC
i..D
d..D
e.PC
B.#C
o.#
x##
Since this is a LF driver, there should not be any significance to the shape or edge profile [sharp/round] of the cover since all the wavelengths are vastly longer than 0.75", correct?
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st December 2012, 07:41 PM   #5
Pano is offline Pano  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
Pano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Milliways
Blog Entries: 4
Correct. I've done the plug 'n patch, too. It's some labor, but it works well.
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st December 2012, 08:05 PM   #6
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
An example of one that Bernie did.

Click the image to open in full size.

A bit more meat to work with than you have -- nominal 6.5 to 4"

Before:

Click the image to open in full size.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd January 2013, 01:45 AM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Weed, CA, USA
@planet10: those are ******* beautiful! I know some guys who have that kind of vision and skill, but I'm not one of them. A nice lacquer job is about as far as I'd go. Thanks.
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd January 2013, 04:55 AM   #8
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
All Bernies's work (i did the design & the drivers)

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd January 2013, 11:38 AM   #9
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
diyAudio Member
 
JMFahey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Buenos Aires - Argentina
Beautiful cabinets.
Congratulations.
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd January 2013, 11:45 AM   #10
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
Hi,

You could :

Cut out the correct sized hole in a square of mdf.

Then cut into 2 pieces,
(assuming the rear and baffle are non-removable).

Screw and glue them to the inside of the cutout.

Front mount the driver in the existing cutout.

rgds, sreten.
__________________
There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann
When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
how to make subwoofer hole smaller? icecoolwas Subwoofers 3 26th October 2009 08:22 PM
HELP with driver selection for existing enclosure fazman Multi-Way 4 26th October 2007 02:24 PM
Hole in driver dome 3-LockBox Full Range 10 30th August 2007 10:27 PM
4" or smaller FR driver for 2-way Kensai Full Range 4 22nd June 2006 12:40 AM
Replacing a driver tube in an existing EL84 SE Amp corbato Tubes / Valves 29 16th February 2003 05:33 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 08:48 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2