I have an aluminum enclosure with fairly thin walls. Any ideas how to make rectangular cutouts for VU meters? The meters would have to be mounted from behind so I assume that some sort of trim on the outside is mandatory. I just need to know how do I make fairly straight cutouts with just simple tools (dremel, saw, files, etc)?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Get a sheet metal nibbler - best hand tool ever invented for that sort of thing. If the stuff's too thick for that, then you'll just have to drill and file or get it machined.
76011B Sheet Metal Nibbler
76011B Sheet Metal Nibbler
Try to get a fine tooth file as wide as the hole you need, you will find it easier to get the holes square that way.
Other than that ask your local machine shop to cut it for you.
If the plate is VERY THIN you will need to support it while you are working with it. Clamping it between two pieces of wood is sufficient.
Other than that ask your local machine shop to cut it for you.
If the plate is VERY THIN you will need to support it while you are working with it. Clamping it between two pieces of wood is sufficient.
Dremel cut off wheel (get the fiberglass reinforced type and wear protective eyewear!)
Drill holes in the four corners (assuming a rectangular cutout) then do the long cuts with the cut off wheel.
Clean up edges and corners with files.
A sheet metal nibbler will also work. Big holes take a lot of nibbling and I could never get a long straight clean line with a nibbler. A reinforced cut off wheel will zip right through thin aluminum.
Drill holes in the four corners (assuming a rectangular cutout) then do the long cuts with the cut off wheel.
Clean up edges and corners with files.
A sheet metal nibbler will also work. Big holes take a lot of nibbling and I could never get a long straight clean line with a nibbler. A reinforced cut off wheel will zip right through thin aluminum.
Thanks for replies. Looks like dremel is the way to go. I could also try the nibbler tool but I would have to purchase it since it is not in my toolbox.
I guess, I would also need an idea for the trim around the VU meters. I thought of 1/8" aluminum bars setup as a frame and painted black to cover any imperfections. What do you guys think?
I guess, I would also need an idea for the trim around the VU meters. I thought of 1/8" aluminum bars setup as a frame and painted black to cover any imperfections. What do you guys think?
Do the meters mount from the front or from the back. Fortunately, most meters mount from the front so they hide any messy hole chopping to some degree.
If they mount from the back and you can see the naked edges of the hole from the front, then you are back where you started!
In the past I made meter frames out of thin brass strips from a hobby shop, cut with snips after carefully marking 45 deg cuts with a protractor, then painted them black.
I'd love to hear other ideas! This is a necessity = mother of invention area.
If they mount from the back and you can see the naked edges of the hole from the front, then you are back where you started!
In the past I made meter frames out of thin brass strips from a hobby shop, cut with snips after carefully marking 45 deg cuts with a protractor, then painted them black.
I'd love to hear other ideas! This is a necessity = mother of invention area.
Round or rectangular cut out?
Big difference in the methods.
Round is easy. Hole saw or fly cutter + drill press. Hole saws can be hand held, although the hole needs to be cleaned up. Try it on scrap first.
If ur mounting in a thin aluminum chassis, I'd NOT do that.
I'd surface mount.
BUT if you want it to look good, then ur best bet is to fabricate a "bezel" or scrounge one, buy one. Then the hole in the chassis is non-critical, use one of the methods suggested already.
But it is really difficult to make a nice looking hole by hand in a chassis, period.
You could use plastic (lexan, acrylic, etc.) to make a bezel, it works nicely and can be polished.
Wood works too. Especially closed grain woods, cherry, rosewood, ebony, maple, etc...
_-_-bear
Big difference in the methods.
Round is easy. Hole saw or fly cutter + drill press. Hole saws can be hand held, although the hole needs to be cleaned up. Try it on scrap first.
If ur mounting in a thin aluminum chassis, I'd NOT do that.
I'd surface mount.
BUT if you want it to look good, then ur best bet is to fabricate a "bezel" or scrounge one, buy one. Then the hole in the chassis is non-critical, use one of the methods suggested already.
But it is really difficult to make a nice looking hole by hand in a chassis, period.
You could use plastic (lexan, acrylic, etc.) to make a bezel, it works nicely and can be polished.
Wood works too. Especially closed grain woods, cherry, rosewood, ebony, maple, etc...
_-_-bear
picture please?
I have *never* come across VU meters that mount from the back without some sort of added arrangement, usually a frame with a set of screw down clamps.
_-_-bear
Here is a picture of the meters that I have:
photo
I took if from Ebay but I have exact same meters. I pulled them from something long time ago and do not have any bezels or mounting hardware. I got couple of JLM VU buffer boards and I am trying to put together a VU meter for my stereo system. The enclosure is this one:
photo
photo
I took if from Ebay but I have exact same meters. I pulled them from something long time ago and do not have any bezels or mounting hardware. I got couple of JLM VU buffer boards and I am trying to put together a VU meter for my stereo system. The enclosure is this one:
photo
Next time use the "Go Advanced" and the Manage Attachments, that way the image stays with ur post over time... fyi.
Tough build here. Fixed box situation.
The chassis is a U shape: |_____|
Quite frankly, unless ur strapped for $$, I'd just make the circuit work, with these meters on a board, then buy some better, larger VU meters, preferably with bezels included, and build into a different more suitable chassis/panel. Or go w/round meters.
Hope the circuit has "peak hold" feature?
That's a good thing to have.
But if you must use this box, then the mounting is going to have to be more or less a clamp holding the meter to the rear of the cutout in the face of the front.
That works out to be a flat head screw or two, held th the panel by a nut, and those screws holding a bar or short clamp piece ta puts the pressure on the the meter. A bit of squishy stuff between the bar/clamp and the meter will keep it from breaking the plastic.
If you fabricate a front plate for that little chassis, you can cut somewhat less than perfect holes for the meters, that will be covered and made invisible by the front plate.
_-_-bear
Tough build here. Fixed box situation.
The chassis is a U shape: |_____|
Quite frankly, unless ur strapped for $$, I'd just make the circuit work, with these meters on a board, then buy some better, larger VU meters, preferably with bezels included, and build into a different more suitable chassis/panel. Or go w/round meters.
Hope the circuit has "peak hold" feature?
That's a good thing to have.
But if you must use this box, then the mounting is going to have to be more or less a clamp holding the meter to the rear of the cutout in the face of the front.
That works out to be a flat head screw or two, held th the panel by a nut, and those screws holding a bar or short clamp piece ta puts the pressure on the the meter. A bit of squishy stuff between the bar/clamp and the meter will keep it from breaking the plastic.
If you fabricate a front plate for that little chassis, you can cut somewhat less than perfect holes for the meters, that will be covered and made invisible by the front plate.
_-_-bear
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If those meters have a round back, I'd drill the round hole with a step bit and have the whole meter sticking out of the hole. A piece of bar aluminum or brass strip across the bottom side with the lamp can dress it up a bit and shield the glaring direct rays of the lamp from the eye.
Then, if unsatisfied with that ghetto approach, I'd go look for some better meters that are also easier to mount.
Then, if unsatisfied with that ghetto approach, I'd go look for some better meters that are also easier to mount.
+1
Besides, they are not even rectangular, but have that weird protrusion on the bottom.
Of course, probably not even TEAC punched Aluminum, they must have used an injected Plastic front panel, which of course can take any shape.
Loved the wood idea
I have punch presses with different dies, including rectangular ones, but even so can't have a perfect rectangle, because I would have to make such a big hole with 3 or 4 punches with a smaller die, so I'd probably paint the front panel black, the magical colour which helps disguise small imperfections.
And even having the proper machine, I can only work on flat sheet and bend later.
That said, maybe you can improvise some edge-hiding bezel with a *sharp* cutter, a metal ruler and some plastic sheet material. (or relatively thin wood strips).
Now that I think about it, if you know somebody at a shop which actually makes picture frames, they usually have a foot operated "guillotine" which cuts strips of wood at perfect 45º angles, they might custom make a bezel for you.
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