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Old 30th December 2012, 01:39 PM   #11
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Thanks for the info. I decided I would simply drill through and use M3 screws and nuts. This is intended to be a nice-looking functional amplifier, not a metalworking experiment and I don't want to make my first 50 mistakes on an expensive chassis. So I will try to stick to more foolproof methods. My chassis should arrive in a few weeks.
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Old 13th January 2013, 11:02 PM   #12
solid is offline solid  United States
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Hi Kean,

Not having much experience, I've recently been thinking about how to mount the trannies to the heatsink. After much reading, I'm not looking forward to tapping and threading. User MJL21193, however, has been preaching (to little avail) about using thread cutting screws instead.

The MONGREL (supersym II)

This seems like an attractive alternative to me...
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Old 14th January 2013, 07:51 AM   #13
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Thanks for the tip. That's definitely something I will consider. The chassis arrived today and the screws feel pretty solid, unlikely to strip without seriously unjustified torque, so I'm more confident about the thread strength of these heatsinks.

What I had the thought of doing was using M3 carriage bolts. These would prevent someone trying to take it apart from the outside, and wouldn't be too ugly. The vent slots are M5 size, and could be used for securing trafo, caps and so on. M5 carriage bolts would work well here too.

I have been trying to think of ways to mount the toroid without shorting the magnetic field. I don't have any mounting hardware for it.
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