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#11 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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+2
__________________
------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
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Working (nicely)..... rather low on heat, perhaps due to the low wattage (600w) of the the cartridge & the thermostat in addition?
Cost: 10Ø x 250mm (600w)Cartridge element .....£ 6.67 Thermoswitch...................................... £ 5.50 Alu.U channel ...................................... £ 2.00 (surplus) Other parts needed; Flame proof plastic or metal casing IEC or similar mains panel socket 2x 50x 280-300mm 25mm MDF or similar wood pieces 1x 350mm 25mm MDF or similar wood (base) suitable mains wire Insulated 6 mm spade clips Last edited by teleman; 6th November 2012 at 03:39 PM. |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Thanks for the update and piccys. Certainly an unusual project. Hope you get the desired results
__________________
------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
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I left it to "burn in" for some time & could smell burning wood. On closure inspection it was obvious that a good portion of the sides were nearly charred.So I don't think using light wood like MDF,ply or any other soft or particle wood would be a good idea! I think I'd change to teak or similar hard wood.
I am not sure if placing the cartridge in a tight fitting steel tube would spread the heat even better or not? It's just that the rotary thermoswitch threw me off by it's sheer simplicity than I imagined at first!. This is why I asked for some guidance, but sadly only to be inundated with unwarranted sarcasm & a few veiled insults thrown instead. |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Instead of wood or ply or anything that can burn, use a BRICK!
You mast have a friend who is working at a building site somewhere. Get the brick from him. He also makes a nice "channel" to the brick for your thermoelement. To make it have a totally nice and flat surfase, you can screw a couple of aluminum sheets on it... |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
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Quote:
The heating element can't/won't reach the temperature required as the brick will absorbe it. Brick over time will dry up & crack, not to mention the weight. You'd ideally need a hard wood which has a good heat resistance & not burn easily,hence soft woods are out of the question for this purpose. Perhaps someone can suggest a suitable wood type for this! |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Not wood is the best wood!
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Well... I dont know about Norway, but here at the almostRussia, we build even fireplaces and ridiculously high temperature ovens with bricks... ;-)
And they do not dry and crack... I would definitely go with the 'not wood' here... Weight is good. It holds on your table. Ask your good friend to make the channel wide enough so that there will be some room between the aluminum profile and the brick and you can have some sort of fireproof thermal insulation there, such as an air gap... |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Old storage heater bricks (the type that use a single wire element) have channels in the top of them.
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