THERMOSTAT SWITCH-HEATING ELEMENT WIRING QUESTION

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I know this is strictly a audio related forum,but would be grateful if someone could kindly help me this question.

I am trying to construct a small "Plastic heat bending Jig" to make some ABS plastic cases. I have bought a 15mm/300mm long heating rod element & want to wire it to an Oven type-10A/250v) Thermostat/ temperature control switch. However I'm not sure how I should wire these two.

The connection details given below.

Thanks
 

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Insulation of the mains terminations is very important.
Is the heating element for 220Vac or 220Vdc use?
Can you arrange to power up through an isolating transformer?

As to the switching.
Simply connect the switch contacts in series with the heater.
When the contacts are open the heater is OFF. When the contacts are closed the heater is ON.

But that will give quite large swings in temperature as the "system" cycles through the ON/OFF phases.
That may be good enough.
Proportional control is very much more complex. Avoid it if you can.
 
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Thanks Andrew,
Yes, I will insulate the terminations properly.
Both the h. element & the thermo/switch are rated for 220v ac only

Sorry,I don't have an isolation transformer....just want to keep it simple but want to be able work saftely.

I've worked how the switch works,but still confused as to how to wire these two in series...perhaps you could direct me please?

Cheers
 

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Thanks guys for all your input...however, I think I've asked the wrong question! What tripped me off ( pun not intended!) was the terminal post 1

Whats's the purpose of terminal post 1?
Is the wiring as I've drawn correct?
 

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Teleman,
you are way out of your depth.
That switch is a double throw type. Sometimes described in the datasheet as spdt (single pole double throw).
It has a normally closed (NC) pair of contacts and a normally open (NO) pair of contacts.
You should have known this.
You should also have known that you can check which contacts are NC with a test instrument, or even a battery and bulb.
You should also know how to connect in series.
You should also know how to get the switch to change over.

This is all very basic electrics.
You do not learn this by experimenting with mains voltage on the LIVE side.

I suggest you get a qualified electrician to wire this up and "certify" that it is safe for your to use.
 
Working (nicely)..... rather low on heat, perhaps due to the low wattage (600w) of the the cartridge & the thermostat in addition?

Cost:
10Ø x 250mm (600w)Cartridge element .....£ 6.67
Thermoswitch...................................... £ 5.50
Alu.U channel ...................................... £ 2.00 (surplus)

Other parts needed;
Flame proof plastic or metal casing
IEC or similar mains panel socket
2x 50x 280-300mm 25mm MDF or similar wood pieces
1x 350mm 25mm MDF or similar wood (base)

suitable mains wire
Insulated 6 mm spade clips
 

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I left it to "burn in" for some time & could smell burning wood. On closure inspection it was obvious that a good portion of the sides were nearly charred.So I don't think using light wood like MDF,ply or any other soft or particle wood would be a good idea! I think I'd change to teak or similar hard wood.

I am not sure if placing the cartridge in a tight fitting steel tube would spread the heat even better or not?

It's just that the rotary thermoswitch threw me off by it's sheer simplicity than I imagined at first!. This is why I asked for some guidance, but sadly only to be inundated with unwarranted sarcasm & a few veiled insults thrown instead.
 
Instead of wood or ply or anything that can burn, use a BRICK!
You mast have a friend who is working at a building site somewhere.
Get the brick from him. He also makes a nice "channel" to the brick for your thermoelement.
To make it have a totally nice and flat surfase, you can screw a couple of aluminum sheets on it...
 
Instead of wood or ply or anything that can burn, use a BRICK!
You mast have a friend who is working at a building site somewhere.
Get the brick from him. He also makes a nice "channel" to the brick for your thermoelement.
To make it have a totally nice and flat surfase, you can screw a couple of aluminum sheets on it...

This is not practical or possible IMHO.

The heating element can't/won't reach the temperature required as the brick will absorbe it. Brick over time will dry up & crack, not to mention the weight. You'd ideally need a hard wood which has a good heat resistance & not burn easily,hence soft woods are out of the question for this purpose.

Perhaps someone can suggest a suitable wood type for this!
 
Well... I dont know about Norway, but here at the almostRussia, we build even fireplaces and ridiculously high temperature ovens with bricks... ;-)
And they do not dry and crack...

I would definitely go with the 'not wood' here...

Weight is good. It holds on your table.
Ask your good friend to make the channel wide enough so that there will be some room between the aluminum profile and the brick and you can have some sort of fireproof thermal insulation there, such as an air gap...
 
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