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Old 4th August 2012, 03:04 AM   #11
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60 bux for an excellent blade. Crazy! I have many Freud blades. There may be some equals, Tenryu for instance, but are they Communese?
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Old 4th August 2012, 04:32 AM   #12
doorman is offline doorman  Canada
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(Pardon the hijack, Canada 2, GB nil--- Olympic women's football!)
Yup, Chris's blade rec. is perfect!
Don
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Old 22nd August 2012, 03:17 PM   #13
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One good trick/tip I learned and works great is to score the wood with a sharp box knife. This prevents chips and tears when using cheap blade.
I use a long metal ruler to accurately score the wood.
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Old 24th August 2012, 08:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michelevit View Post
One good trick/tip I learned and works great is to score the wood with a sharp box knife. This prevents chips and tears when using cheap blade.
I use a long metal ruler to accurately score the wood.
Agree. I was going to recommend doing this also. It works with melamine too. Even with a good blade, its hard to avoid tearing the veneer, especially when crosscutting.
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Old 3rd September 2012, 05:13 AM   #15
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I use this blade Freud LU79R010 on my table saw. I talked to the guys at woodcraft for a while they recommended this blade and said blades with a near neutral pitch were best for what I was doing. Between the table saw and my Festool TS75 I'm set
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Old 27th November 2012, 01:57 AM   #16
dmag is offline dmag  United States
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Triple chip or best results will be had with a high alternate bevel with a negative rake angle.
More teeth is always better.
A layer of blue masking tape can help with tearout if its still a proben.
Amana and Everlast used to have very good technical refs in their blade catalogs.
And use a guige for skilsaws.
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Old 27th November 2012, 04:21 AM   #17
dangus is offline dangus  Canada
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I cut oversize if I'm using the Skilsaw, then do a final cut using a router with a carbide bit. On an inside edge, I'll use the router with a guide. On an outside edge, I'll leave it oversized until the box is assembled, then use a flush trimmer bit.
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