Hello, I am working on a little project..I am essentially trying to make a "2.1 system in a box" type of deal I want to make this thing portable. The thing is I am not too knowledgeable when it comes to doing these things especially with audio systems. I am doing my research right now but that can only go so far for me when doing it alone. So I'd like to ask for a bit of help on this.
Here is what I have so far.
For a sub I chose this:
Tang Band W3-1876S 3" Mini Subwoofer 264-909
Seems to the most reasonable power wise for what I want to use it for, and light weight.
Now onto the part where im a little stumped.
What exactly would I use to put this all together and make it work (amps and all that), (2 small speakers as well)..I am really trying not to over complicate this thing.
I was told I would need an amp by a friend who knows a decent amount about electronic hardware but not too much on speaker systems, so after looking around I ran into this.
Dayton Audio DTA-100a Class-T Digital Amplifier 50 WPC Provides Power To Computer Speakers, Bookshelf Speakers, Headphones, And More! 300-383
Wondering if this will do good and if it would be possible to make this portable with power consumption within reason.
I am also still looking for speakers, I put the speakers last because I am very flexible on that part..they can be pretty simple. So, if anyone could link me to some nice cheap speakers that would be nice as well.
Also, I would like some help on what would be best to power all of this, along with a LED setup as well. (pulsating to the beat of songs)..and whether it would be best to have one power supply for both or one totally separate for the speakers and a lower power power supply for the LEDs.
Finally, I am very aware about how this may come out to weighing a decent amount so no need to tell me that this will be heavy, I know and I am prepared for it lol. I would just like to know what is best for it all within the lightest amount of weight that will do.
Here is what I have so far.
For a sub I chose this:
Tang Band W3-1876S 3" Mini Subwoofer 264-909
Seems to the most reasonable power wise for what I want to use it for, and light weight.
Now onto the part where im a little stumped.
What exactly would I use to put this all together and make it work (amps and all that), (2 small speakers as well)..I am really trying not to over complicate this thing.
I was told I would need an amp by a friend who knows a decent amount about electronic hardware but not too much on speaker systems, so after looking around I ran into this.
Dayton Audio DTA-100a Class-T Digital Amplifier 50 WPC Provides Power To Computer Speakers, Bookshelf Speakers, Headphones, And More! 300-383
Wondering if this will do good and if it would be possible to make this portable with power consumption within reason.
I am also still looking for speakers, I put the speakers last because I am very flexible on that part..they can be pretty simple. So, if anyone could link me to some nice cheap speakers that would be nice as well.
Also, I would like some help on what would be best to power all of this, along with a LED setup as well. (pulsating to the beat of songs)..and whether it would be best to have one power supply for both or one totally separate for the speakers and a lower power power supply for the LEDs.
Finally, I am very aware about how this may come out to weighing a decent amount so no need to tell me that this will be heavy, I know and I am prepared for it lol. I would just like to know what is best for it all within the lightest amount of weight that will do.
First off I'd recommend going with a larger subwoofer probably in the 8-10" range. If you are set on really small go with the Tang Band 6.5" ferrite subwoofer. There are a few woofers on sale at Parts Express
Peerless 4.5"
Peerless 832444 4-1/2" Shielded Midbass Driver 4 Ohm 299-278
and a focal 6.5"
Focal 6M115 6-1/2" Midbass Speaker 299-155
For a tweeter perhapsa daton?
Dayton Audio ND16FA-6 5/8" Neodymium Dome Tweeter 275-025
What is your application? How many listeners in what size space? Are you trying to fit all this in one box?
Good luck.
Peerless 4.5"
Peerless 832444 4-1/2" Shielded Midbass Driver 4 Ohm 299-278
and a focal 6.5"
Focal 6M115 6-1/2" Midbass Speaker 299-155
For a tweeter perhapsa daton?
Dayton Audio ND16FA-6 5/8" Neodymium Dome Tweeter 275-025
What is your application? How many listeners in what size space? Are you trying to fit all this in one box?
Good luck.
Oh yeah, I should have went into a little more detail on this..I want this to be portable/powered on its own via a type battery setup because I plan to walk around a bit with this so yes I plan to fit all of this in one box. I also guess I should go into more detail on what exactly I plan to use this for..this is for a prop for a costume (for an anime con.).
Here is a clip of what the prop is, I little hard to see sorry about that.
the huge cylinder type encloser with the blue stripes is where I plan to put everything it wont be that exact size, and I am still working out the measurements, I will get to that once I get all the equipment I need out of the way., but my plan is to have the sub in the back taking about 25/50% of for an encloser for it..and everything else will be in the front. (LED processor/amp/power supply)
Here is a clip of what the prop is, I little hard to see sorry about that.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the huge cylinder type encloser with the blue stripes is where I plan to put everything it wont be that exact size, and I am still working out the measurements, I will get to that once I get all the equipment I need out of the way., but my plan is to have the sub in the back taking about 25/50% of for an encloser for it..and everything else will be in the front. (LED processor/amp/power supply)
2.1 is unnecessarily complicated... you have to come up with a crossover, and a mono amp for the sub. Just use a stereo T-amp and a couple of reasonably sized speakers in the 4 to 6" range, 4 ohms since that's what the amp will be optimized for. Car speakers often turn up at thrift stores and yard sales. If light weight is a concern, look for some that use neodymium magnets and composite frames. Try asking nicely at a car audio install shop, because they could have speakers left over from replacing an OEM system.
For the amp, the cheapest good option is a TA2020 or TA2024 amp board from eBay, about $10 including shipping. Some include a volume control for that price. For around $20 you can get one in an actual case, and maybe with tone controls (not sure). These amps work fine from 12V, and produce about the same real power as most "high power" car head units.
For a battery:
12V 7 to 9 AH sealed lead-acid battery? That should run it for many hours. Around $20 and up.
NiMH? 10 AA would weigh much less, and give about 1/3 the run time. The "low self discharge" type like the Sanyo Eneloop may be the best choice; Duracell and Energizer sell them under their own labels. Around here, one drugstore regularly puts them on sale at $8 for a four pack. Look for "made in Japan" on the package and a white plastic insulator around the positive terminal.
Laptop, cordless tool or camcorder battery pack. Be very careful if it's any kind of lithium chemistry when it comes to charging.
Of those battery types, sealed lead-acid is the simplest to charge... limit the current to C/5, and set the voltage to around 13.8 to 14.4 volts. NiCd and NiMH really need a smart charger that senses temperature rise or peak voltage to avoid over-charging.
For a light display, an LED bar graph driver is a good option. Google and Youtube UAA180, LM3914, LM3915, LM3916 for ideas. Driving an array of LEDs which are turned on one column at a time using a 4017 CMOS chip can make a display that resembles an oscilloscope. I saw something like that at Youtube, and maybe Instructibles.
For the amp, the cheapest good option is a TA2020 or TA2024 amp board from eBay, about $10 including shipping. Some include a volume control for that price. For around $20 you can get one in an actual case, and maybe with tone controls (not sure). These amps work fine from 12V, and produce about the same real power as most "high power" car head units.
For a battery:
12V 7 to 9 AH sealed lead-acid battery? That should run it for many hours. Around $20 and up.
NiMH? 10 AA would weigh much less, and give about 1/3 the run time. The "low self discharge" type like the Sanyo Eneloop may be the best choice; Duracell and Energizer sell them under their own labels. Around here, one drugstore regularly puts them on sale at $8 for a four pack. Look for "made in Japan" on the package and a white plastic insulator around the positive terminal.
Laptop, cordless tool or camcorder battery pack. Be very careful if it's any kind of lithium chemistry when it comes to charging.
Of those battery types, sealed lead-acid is the simplest to charge... limit the current to C/5, and set the voltage to around 13.8 to 14.4 volts. NiCd and NiMH really need a smart charger that senses temperature rise or peak voltage to avoid over-charging.
For a light display, an LED bar graph driver is a good option. Google and Youtube UAA180, LM3914, LM3915, LM3916 for ideas. Driving an array of LEDs which are turned on one column at a time using a 4017 CMOS chip can make a display that resembles an oscilloscope. I saw something like that at Youtube, and maybe Instructibles.
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