Hey guys!
I'm essentially looking for opinions on the best way to attach drywall to studs. As I've been working on my media room, I've noticed that in a couple of places my drywall has developed an annoying tendency to "loosen" from the studs.
For example, the walls right next to where I have my 2 rear t-tqwt subs located, at high volume, the drywall loosens up from the studs so that it vibrates a little bit. My cure for now has just been to add more screws to it, but in a few key locations, I've had to use 8 or 10 screws to keep the drywall from pulling away from the studs and vibrating, and my fear is that they'll just pull loose again.
Is there a simple product or method for building walls and structure in an area like a media room that's specially designed to keep things tight and vibration free? I've thought about going around behind some of the walls and running a bead of liquid nails between the studs and drywall, but is this really the best method?
I'm essentially looking for opinions on the best way to attach drywall to studs. As I've been working on my media room, I've noticed that in a couple of places my drywall has developed an annoying tendency to "loosen" from the studs.
For example, the walls right next to where I have my 2 rear t-tqwt subs located, at high volume, the drywall loosens up from the studs so that it vibrates a little bit. My cure for now has just been to add more screws to it, but in a few key locations, I've had to use 8 or 10 screws to keep the drywall from pulling away from the studs and vibrating, and my fear is that they'll just pull loose again.
Is there a simple product or method for building walls and structure in an area like a media room that's specially designed to keep things tight and vibration free? I've thought about going around behind some of the walls and running a bead of liquid nails between the studs and drywall, but is this really the best method?
The screws seem like they're solid and my mud over them isn't coming loose, but there's still a few sections of wall next to the subs that I just can't seem to shore up. The drywall might be coming loose, but it's hard to tell. I don't see dust anywhere.
For example, there's one section that's right next to my right-rear sub enclosure that on certain upper bass notes, like a techno drum beat, where the wall just makes a rahh rahh rahh sound. It's very audible from the MLP. If I press on it with my hand and lean with body weight it quiets down, but it really just sounds like it's rapping against the studs.
It leads me to think that I've either used too thin of drywall (5/8ths) or I've missed some important step that should be taken for audio-centric rooms.
Dry Wall is only what it says it is.
If you were building a decent kitchen you would arrange for the kitchen cupboards to be attached to the vertical studs and not the dry wall.
If you are hanging heavy loads or vibrating loads you need to locate noggins or studs behind their mounting points.
At the very worst you might need to re-do the dry wall after putting in some prominantly placed support beams. They dont need to be load-bearing but they do need to take-the-load of whatever you are hanging on the wall.
Consider the dry-wall as a piece of paper, it is only there for decorative purposes.
If you were building a decent kitchen you would arrange for the kitchen cupboards to be attached to the vertical studs and not the dry wall.
If you are hanging heavy loads or vibrating loads you need to locate noggins or studs behind their mounting points.
At the very worst you might need to re-do the dry wall after putting in some prominantly placed support beams. They dont need to be load-bearing but they do need to take-the-load of whatever you are hanging on the wall.
Consider the dry-wall as a piece of paper, it is only there for decorative purposes.
Well, when I did the walls I pretty much just did the standard 16" on center studs. They're attached to the header and footer studs with 3" wood screws and all the footer studs are attached to the concrete floor (I'm in the basement) with 4" concrete screws.
I really tried to build to code but it seems like it's just not tough enough.
I guess what I'm thinking is maybe pull a few peices of drywall down and use some cross studs and build a checkerboard behind the walls. Really, I'm just curious to know if anyone else has ran into issues like this.
On this issue specifically, I have nothing hung on any walls at the moment, it's just the walls directly beside where I have my subs that are being unruly.
anyone with experience with Green Glue NOISEPROOF YOUR LIFE | Green Glue
makes a constrained layer damping system by gluing a 2nd sheet over the 1st layer of drywall, the glue is claimed to be viscoelastic
could reduce resonance amplitude
makes a constrained layer damping system by gluing a 2nd sheet over the 1st layer of drywall, the glue is claimed to be viscoelastic
could reduce resonance amplitude
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This was my suspicion as well. I was hoping someone wasn't going to say "you tard, you're supposed to put _____ between the studs and drywall!
Looks like I'm just going to have to go stud happy.
Perhaps there should be a seprate building code for audio rooms?
Thanks fellas.
Well for one thing, the standard residential construction code probably doesn't take the vibrations from (multiple) sub(s) into consideration, and as anyone who's attended a THX cinema recently can attest, attempting even close to the SPL reference level of over 100dB in an average domestic environment is asking rather a lot of its structural integrity.
As others have already noted, while it makes installation of the drywall more time consuming and messy, using a subfloor adhesive to wall studs, in addition to doubling up on the number of screws doesn't hurt - also make sure they're the longer coarse threaded type.
Too late now, unless you want to strip all the old board, but when I built a small basement bedroom for a teenage son a few years ago, sound isolation was on my mind. While many jurisdictions interior none load bearing walls are permitted on 24" centers, I went for 16" OC, and added a layer of 1/2" DonnaConna fiber under the 1/2" drywall, and lotsa screws.
Sound control walls will often use resilient channel and multiple layers of materials with gaps and flexible acoustic sealants. See particularly the note below about not penetrating the drywall screws into the studs in this type of floating mass loaded wall.
As others have already noted, while it makes installation of the drywall more time consuming and messy, using a subfloor adhesive to wall studs, in addition to doubling up on the number of screws doesn't hurt - also make sure they're the longer coarse threaded type.
Too late now, unless you want to strip all the old board, but when I built a small basement bedroom for a teenage son a few years ago, sound isolation was on my mind. While many jurisdictions interior none load bearing walls are permitted on 24" centers, I went for 16" OC, and added a layer of 1/2" DonnaConna fiber under the 1/2" drywall, and lotsa screws.
Sound control walls will often use resilient channel and multiple layers of materials with gaps and flexible acoustic sealants. See particularly the note below about not penetrating the drywall screws into the studs in this type of floating mass loaded wall.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It's not too big a deal, really, I'd rather tear up $200 worth of drywall and put it back up properly instead of fighting with it for the next 10 years, LOL.
So, in this method, you're really floating a decoupled wall on top of another? Another interesting idea that I had not considered.
In the case of the construction method shown in photo, yes, the full mass of the multi-layer wall is essentially decoupled from the structural support studs via the resilient channel, floor pads, and extensive flexible acoustic caulking at all perimeter joints. Let's presume the same would apply to ceiling, and if you really wanted to get carried away, the floor would also be isolated.
Altogether, very time and materials intensive, and to be honest I've never actually needed to execute it myself - "but I was reading on the internet about it...
"
... to be honest I've never actually needed to execute it myself - "but I was reading on the internet about it...
Right, I think I'm kinda in the same boat. Really, I'd just like to have walls that can stand up to a few hundred watts of thumpety thump
The ones I've built so far seem to be a little feeble.
Whatever you do don't add anything on top of what's there if what's already up is failing. As well as gluing the drywall up I have had good results fastening 1/2" plywood to the studs and then screwing/gluing drywall over the plywood. I usually do this to help flatten a wall or ceiling that has some wonky studs. The plywood is cheap and really sturdies up the assembly.
Evan
Evan
That...sounds like a fantastic idea. Perhaps the ply with some of the green glue between could be a tough customer.
Side note, I took a look at your website, you've got some beautiful furniture there, I perticulatly like your 10 drawer cabinet, I've wanted to make something like that for years for all my parts
You lot in the US have access to different products than we do in the UK. I built a stud wall between my Utlity Room and Lounge (one side being shaken by a Washing Machine)(the other by a pair of monstrous 200W speakers). All I did was double layer 8mm Gyproc with 100mm of Rockwool. ie 8mm+8mm+100mm+8mm+8mm. It's almost soundproof and it certainly doesnt shake loose. NO GLUE just lots of gyprock screws.
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