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Old 16th November 2012, 02:20 PM   #41
caper26 is offline caper26  Canada
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All done!

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Old 16th November 2012, 02:41 PM   #42
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Nice!
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Old 18th November 2012, 03:12 AM   #43
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thanks !
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Old 8th September 2013, 12:41 AM   #44
caper26 is offline caper26  Canada
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Sorry to dig up an old thread, and I may start a new one if this question doesn't get any hits:
What size brad nails were you guys talking about? I got some more hands on with a nail gun, and have 2" brad nails for doing molding around the house. I will be building another box, and going for speed. Piloting screw holes takes a long time...

PS: I replaced the driver in the above project with a SDX 12. Damn thing weighs 45 lbs!
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Old 8th September 2013, 12:46 AM   #45
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i use Soudal Trex glue on my cabinets

Soudal T-Rex Demo Video 2012.wmv - YouTube
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Old 8th September 2013, 12:48 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caper26 View Post
Sorry to dig up an old thread, and I may start a new one if this question doesn't get any hits:
What size brad nails were you guys talking about? I got some more hands on with a nail gun, and have 2" brad nails for doing molding around the house. I will be building another box, and going for speed. Piloting screw holes takes a long time...

PS: I replaced the driver in the above project with a SDX 12. Damn thing weighs 45 lbs!
That will work fine. Invest in a biscuit jointer. Makes strong, fast joints. Biscuit jointer, glue, and brads.
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Old 8th September 2013, 01:38 AM   #47
caper26 is offline caper26  Canada
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Just wondering on how to make the cleats with brad nails. length? gauge?
I have 2", 18 Gauge brads now. Would like to be able to assemble a box quickly.
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Old 8th September 2013, 02:04 AM   #48
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Cleats should be large enough to prevent 2" brads from penetrating the outside if you plan to blind nail. Otherwise 3/4" is fine if you are outside nailing. Use clamps to hold the piece while you nail.
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Old 9th September 2013, 01:02 AM   #49
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Buy a box of 1 1/4 brads for cleat nailing. And Jorgensen spring clamps to supplement the standard clamps for some of these tasks. Avoid the plastic frame spring clamps with flexy jaws; they don't work as well as the old school orange plastic tipped ones. And expect things to slide around when you don't want them to after glue has been applied. This is why some of us predrill for at least a couple of screws per cleat since we've seen how far that miserable stick can scoot just at the moment of nailing it. Insurance.
Actually I prefer staples for cleats but then I have accumulated a bunch of pneumatic fastening tools over the decades. Being a tradesman has its payoffs, though a villa in Tuscany isn't part of the standard package.
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Old 9th September 2013, 02:17 AM   #50
caper26 is offline caper26  Canada
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I like to use a clamp lengthwise, to keep pieces flush with the panels. Keeps the pieces from sliding around. I did this when I was using screws.
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