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Old 27th June 2012, 12:34 AM   #21
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Default titebond

Titebond III is way better than II and less brittle than old school yellow glue no matter which brand is on the jug. As for longevity, chances are it's still good if it hasn't frozen. What Cal says. I've never forgiven Tbond II for failing due to low temperature once upon a long time ago.
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Old 27th June 2012, 06:56 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by jneutron View Post
. . . If the plastic container has sucked in over the years, then that means some of the volatiles have diffused through the plastic.
Thanks to you and Cal for the advice. Here's what I did over the weekend.

Well, the container was "sucked in" (or, if that phrase offends the G-rated sensibilities of the forum, "dimpled") but probably not entirely due to the reason you cited. When I remove a smallish amount of liquid from a flexible plastic container, it is my custom to squeeze the container before replacing the cap - to reduce the size of the air pocket above the remaining liquid, assuming that this will reduce evaporation from the liquid, and delay the formation of a dried skin on top of the liquid if it is something like paint, varnish, glue, etc. (Whether this is beneficial, a harmless myth, or actually counterproductive can be the topic of another thread.)

I was puzzled by the bead of dried glue around the base of the cap since I would definitely not store the container with glue oozing out under the cap - in fact, I'd probably wipe the container mouth before replacing the cap. My guess is that at some time over the years - since the glue jug was trapped between the bench leg and a corner of the wall - the bench had shifted enough to compress the jug and force some glue out under the cap.

As I previously mentioned, I was fairly certain that attempting to remove the glued-on cap would destroy the cap, and the process of applying torque could rupture the jug as well, so I simply cut off the mouth of the jug. I transferred the contents to a well-rinsed antifreeze container which was made from a fairly heavy-gauge plastic. The glue seemed to have all the readily observed properties I would expect, except for being a little on the thick side. I added a quarter cup (about 60 mL) of water and mixed well, which brought the consistency almost to what I'd expect.

I grabbed some hand-sized scraps of fiberboard and made a couple test joints by gluing the flat surfaces together and lightly clamping. The area of each joint was roughly 10 sq inches (60 sq cm) by my visual estimate. After about an hour I pried one joint apart with a screwdriver and some difficulty, noting that the glue was still a little tacky in the middle of the joint. After the other joint sat overnight I destroyed the piece of fiberboard while trying to break the joint.

So I have concluded that this old Titebond glue is probably good enough for the applications I have for it, and will use it.

Dale
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Old 28th June 2012, 05:17 AM   #23
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Old 3rd July 2012, 02:41 PM   #24
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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Well cut up some old 15 year boxes that were made with Tighbond II last weekend, it took a lot of pounding with heavy 22oz hammer to break them up and that was after several passes with a skill saw.

Personaly, I've always been amazed with Tightbond glue, like they say, stronger the wood.

It does take longer to dry in the summer.
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Old 10th July 2012, 06:30 AM   #25
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My thoughts,
I prefer titebond III for the longer working time vs titebond II. For tight fitting wood joints those are the best. For filling gaps I recommend epoxy with fumed silica and milled glass fibers(I use 70 micorns) about 5% each by volume. Gaps, in my experience, tend to come in the worst spots they could be, perhaps its that damned murphy and his law, or my bad luck, but that is why I stay away from the gorilla glue PU type adhesives for those spots. The foaming action can result in poor bond strength especially in humid areas.

For gap filling or screw covering where it will need to be painted and having maximum adhesion is important, I use plaster of paris(with some water) and wood glue, with some type of fiber to create a "matrix" like chopped fiberglass or cellulose, etc; in this case the organic fibers work better imo.

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Old 28th September 2012, 12:41 PM   #26
caper26 is offline caper26  Canada
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do you guys have any links on photos on how to make the inside corner 'joints' or whatever. i am looking for speeds here, instead of clamping and waiting 24 hrs for glue to dry. i would like to get most of it together in one day...the gluing that is. I guess it can be done with screws, then remove the clamps and continue, but what is the other way, brad nails? photos?
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Old 30th September 2012, 01:16 AM   #27
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The PVA glues don't need 24 hours for a bond strong enough to continue work. A couple of hours of clamping will be plenty as long as you don't throw the boxes around or use them as jackstands.
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Old 30th September 2012, 03:02 AM   #28
chrisb is online now chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastbike1 View Post
The PVA glues don't need 24 hours for a bond strong enough to continue work. A couple of hours of clamping will be plenty as long as you don't throw the boxes around or use them as jackstands.



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Old 30th September 2012, 12:43 PM   #29
FozzZ is offline FozzZ  Canada
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Epoxy can have some advantages. You can purchase it based on cure time. Some project need more open time than PVA will allow. I use apoxy anytime I'm laminating material. I have also use quick dry epoxy and even CA glue for smaller project where fasteners can't be used.
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Old 30th September 2012, 02:08 PM   #30
caper26 is offline caper26  Canada
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yeah, the club is only open for a few hours a day, so I can only do one glue job each day. brad nails? screws?
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