Hi ,
it's very easy : a drill ,a (hand)saw and a rasp .
Make the hole in the corners , then insert the saw ( if it's too large , make three
or more holes ) and start . The rounded corners will be squared with the rasp.
Or you can make lots of holes along the perimeter , then cut the separation between them with the saw , which has to have a very narrow blade
it's very easy : a drill ,a (hand)saw and a rasp .
Make the hole in the corners , then insert the saw ( if it's too large , make three
or more holes ) and start . The rounded corners will be squared with the rasp.
Or you can make lots of holes along the perimeter , then cut the separation between them with the saw , which has to have a very narrow blade
Mark out the rectangle you require. Drill four holes at the four corners with a 3 mm or 4 mm drill making sure the hole lies within the rectangle. So the drill guide point should be 1.5 or 2 mm (as the case may be ) from the boundary line for the rectangle.
Then drill a large hole within the rectangle to be removed , it should be large enough to take a bit on the jig saw. Then as usual work your way around the markings you have with the jig saw.
If you have no jig saw, then make several holes about 4 or 5 mm dia ( or bigger ?) almost touching each other all around within your rectangle and knock out the center section with a hammer. Then use a wood file to file out the edges to the finish you want or till it is sufficient.
Hmmmm.......picowall types faster !
Then drill a large hole within the rectangle to be removed , it should be large enough to take a bit on the jig saw. Then as usual work your way around the markings you have with the jig saw.
If you have no jig saw, then make several holes about 4 or 5 mm dia ( or bigger ?) almost touching each other all around within your rectangle and knock out the center section with a hammer. Then use a wood file to file out the edges to the finish you want or till it is sufficient.
Hmmmm.......picowall types faster !
Hi Ashok ! ( your english is better )
And , Fusion nineonesix , if you're worried about ruining the wood ( especially the layers of plywood), I saw a photo where there was paper tape covering the perimeter to be cut .
The adhesive tape (also , many layers of it ! ) won't let the superficial layer to bark .
Bark bark ! (from internet translator !! )
And , Fusion nineonesix , if you're worried about ruining the wood ( especially the layers of plywood), I saw a photo where there was paper tape covering the perimeter to be cut .
The adhesive tape (also , many layers of it ! ) won't let the superficial layer to bark .
Bark bark ! (from internet translator !! )
The Internet translator is 'wicked' at times !
"...won't let the superficial layer to bark..." should probably be "won't let the superficial layer to break ".
It might be more accurate to say " won't let the superficial layer to fray ". Fray meaning breaking off into irregular small pieces on the edge. ..never mind !
"...won't let the superficial layer to bark..." should probably be "won't let the superficial layer to break ".
It might be more accurate to say " won't let the superficial layer to fray ". Fray meaning breaking off into irregular small pieces on the edge. ..never mind !
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Just had a sudden thought totally out of context but couldn't help putting it down! You mentioned something about 'better English'.
Isn't it interesting that a non physical thing ( a thought or idea) is transformed into a physical thing like words or sound and transported across to another person who converts it back to a non physical thought or idea. As long as the original thought or idea matches reasonably well with what the receiver decodes then it doesn't matter how good or bad the 'transporting medium', the language is !
Cheers.
Isn't it interesting that a non physical thing ( a thought or idea) is transformed into a physical thing like words or sound and transported across to another person who converts it back to a non physical thought or idea. As long as the original thought or idea matches reasonably well with what the receiver decodes then it doesn't matter how good or bad the 'transporting medium', the language is !
Cheers.
I'll just put in a vote for using a router. A plunge router may be preferable, but a non-plunge router with an easily-adjusted depth (like a rack and pinion) will work fine. And if you want to get fancy and cut a recess to flush-mount a driver, it's about the only tool to use. It's the single most useful power tool for building speaker cabinets.
I vote for dangus's suggestion of a plunge router. Prices are much lower for these ( here !) than they used to be. Remember to get a good router bit as cheap ones wear out rather fast ( or break if carelessly handled ! ). Ability to make stepped holes to take in the driver flange is very useful .
As usual with ALL motorised tools handle them VERY carefully. If you are careless they 'could' cause very serious damage !
As usual with ALL motorised tools handle them VERY carefully. If you are careless they 'could' cause very serious damage !
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Jig saw with a fine tooth blade. Drill a 1/2-inch hole to start. Make an "X' with the blade. Finish by going around each side very carefully. Clean up with a fine tooth wood file. A router will not make a clean rectangular hole, as it will leave round corners. Why create all that dust and go through the set up to use a router? If you can freehand with a router, you can definitely freehand with a jigsaw more accurately and quickly.
I drill only two holes at opposite corners and work outward from there in both directions.
I think it's easier to file (or hacksaw, or chisel) the corners square than it is to make a straight and right-angled cut with a jigsaw. Not that it matters if the horn's mounting flange covers it.
My router cost me $35 at a pawn shop; it's an old B&D professional which looks exactly like the newer DeWalt DW610, except black instead of yellow.
As for dust... I nearly always work outside, on a tarp since the driveway is gravel.
My router cost me $35 at a pawn shop; it's an old B&D professional which looks exactly like the newer DeWalt DW610, except black instead of yellow.
As for dust... I nearly always work outside, on a tarp since the driveway is gravel.
dangus,
Check this out, how to make a template:
www.ehow.com/how_2307788_duplicate-shape-router.html
Check this out, how to make a template:
www.ehow.com/how_2307788_duplicate-shape-router.html
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