Protect aluminum face!

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unless there is some grain to the surface and the aluminum is perfectly free of oils and dirt, it will not be so easy to get a nice looking clear coat to stick.

polyurethane varnish will end up thick and plasticy - try it on scrap first. I don't like it.

Anodizing is tricky, and usually will give a matte finish unless you do some special tricks, ANY flaws in the original piece, even if they are sanded off, or scratches will jump out after anodizing. Best to send out to a metal finisher for anodizing. It's not so cheap any longer, but if you find a local place that you can walk in to, you have a good shot at cheap...

wax I guess is ok, but it often feels a bit oily to the touch... maybe not... anything that gets past the wax will try to etch the surface...

a good quality lacquer may work ok... very thin coat, not the thick stuff that usually comes out of spray cans... most can stuff is just clear acrylic paint. Again test on scrap, and let it dry a week or more before deciding - gotta see how hard it is and if it really holds to the surface.

There are self etching primers now, if you want to go for a paint finish...

Aluminum is difficult to finish, I usually send out and get things anodized, although I have done a coarse grain finish with lacquer on some things, I am not always satisfied with it though.

That's all I have to bring to this party.

_-_-bear
 
I have started sending my aluminum out for powder coating. For panels it's very cheap, really quick and it holds up great. I have seen the diy kits but I'm pretty sure I would never have enough panels done to recoup the one time costs of the equipment. I live just outside of Houston so there are lots of powder coating resources in the area. Good luck.
 
If you're going for a brushed look, I used clear coat in rattle can. I think the type was acrylic.

After wet sanding with coarse grit paper, wash with water to remove debris, wipe and air dry then spray a few coats of clear. Seems to stick well to the sanded aluminum.
 

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