Removable Baffles - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Design & Build > Construction Tips

Construction Tips Construction techniques and tips

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 20th March 2012, 05:43 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
LafeEric's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Default Removable Baffles

While perusing the ZaphAudio site the other day I read how all the speakers he builds nowadays have removable baffles. I thought this was a great idea which actually solves a problem I am currently facing.

I am building a rather large speaker but there are some pretty important questions about the design I am just not going be able to answer until I have built the speaker - the classic catch 22. I don't want to waste a lot of time and money on building an entire test enclosure or enclosures... and why should I if I can just replace the baffle?

The question I have is how well is it actually going to work in my project. As I said, they are rather large (> 200L) so I am wondering if I will be able to get them to seal okay, or if they will rattle at volume, or might there be some other unforeseen problem?

How about some of you - do you have any experience or tips or even better ideas you would be willing to share?
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th March 2012, 06:24 PM   #2
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
Quote:
Originally Posted by LafeEric View Post
While perusing the ZaphAudio site the other day I read how all the speakers he builds nowadays have removable baffles. I thought this was a great idea which actually solves a problem I am currently facing.

I am building a rather large speaker but there are some pretty important questions about the design I am just not going be able to answer until I have built the speaker - the classic catch 22. I don't want to waste a lot of time and money on building an entire test enclosure or enclosures... and why should I if I can just replace the baffle?

The question I have is how well is it actually going to work in my project. As I said, they are rather large (> 200L) so I am wondering if I will be able to get them to seal okay, or if they will rattle at volume, or might there be some other unforeseen problem?

How about some of you - do you have any experience or tips or even better ideas you would be willing to share?


sit the baffle on a recessed perimeter frame gusseted at corners to maintain structural integrity and dadoed into the sides/top/bottom, attach with threaded insert fittings (at least 6 per panel) and seal with closed cell neoprene / weather strip tape etc.


edit: exposed margin of perimeter frame should be at least 1 - 1.5" & on that large a box, it wouldn't hurt to run a few frame members and/or hardwood braces across the width of enclosure supporting the removable baffle, in addition to other cabinet bracing

I'm a big fan of bracing, on even the simplest of boxes
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Fonken167 001.jpg (283.0 KB, 118 views)
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you?
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi

Last edited by chrisb; 20th March 2012 at 06:35 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd March 2012, 01:00 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
LafeEric's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
sit the baffle on a recessed perimeter frame gusseted at corners to maintain structural integrity and dadoed into the sides/top/bottom, attach with threaded insert fittings (at least 6 per panel) and seal with closed cell neoprene / weather strip tape etc.


edit: exposed margin of perimeter frame should be at least 1 - 1.5" & on that large a box, it wouldn't hurt to run a few frame members and/or hardwood braces across the width of enclosure supporting the removable baffle, in addition to other cabinet bracing

I'm a big fan of bracing, on even the simplest of boxes
Thanks for the reply chrisb.

Nice work in the photo!

What you describe certainly sounds like it would work. I was simply going to screw/glue some hardwood strips around the perimeter. If I'm careful with alignment it should seal fine with the tape you recommend.

Part of the problem also is due to the size of the cabinet I would have to buy another sheet of plywood just for the dadoed perimeters, and I'm on a bit of a budget. Are you saying you've had problems with less substantial construction? Also, how much clearence around the edges do you recommend? Would something soft around the perimeter help to mitigate any possible noises, like felt tape?

Thanks so much for sharing your time and expertise.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd March 2012, 04:46 PM   #4
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
Quote:
Originally Posted by LafeEric View Post
Thanks for the reply chrisb.

Nice work in the photo!

What you describe certainly sounds like it would work. I was simply going to screw/glue some hardwood strips around the perimeter. If I'm careful with alignment it should seal fine with the tape you recommend.

Part of the problem also is due to the size of the cabinet I would have to buy another sheet of plywood just for the dadoed perimeters, and I'm on a bit of a budget. Are you saying you've had problems with less substantial construction? Also, how much clearence around the edges do you recommend? Would something soft around the perimeter help to mitigate any possible noises, like felt tape?

Thanks so much for sharing your time and expertise.
Well, I do sometimes get carried away with bracing, and in this case solid hardwood cleats/ledger strips ( at least 1" x 1" ) around the perimeter, with separate lateral wall bracing if not already incorporated should be fine. For baffles that are likely to be removed frequently, I prefer using threaded inserts rather than screws on the cleats, and closed cell weatherstrip tape to ensure adequate seal.
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you?
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd March 2012, 06:17 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
LafeEric's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
Well, I do sometimes get carried away with bracing, and in this case solid hardwood cleats/ledger strips ( at least 1" x 1" ) around the perimeter, with separate lateral wall bracing if not already incorporated should be fine. For baffles that are likely to be removed frequently, I prefer using threaded inserts rather than screws on the cleats, and closed cell weatherstrip tape to ensure adequate seal.
Thanks again.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Magnets for removable baffle nonsuchpro Construction Tips 12 9th November 2011 06:48 PM
Don't want removable baffles, what are my options? cersepn Construction Tips 3 21st August 2011 04:14 AM
Removable sound Insulation mbutzkies Multi-Way 4 3rd December 2005 03:40 PM
Removable TO-220 - Sockets Super_BQ Pass Labs 8 30th November 2003 09:46 PM
questions on grill and removable back mFinalHeaven Multi-Way 6 1st October 2002 04:27 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 03:44 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2