Putting veener on cabinets

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I am going to build some cabinets and I am trying the best way to put veener on the panels. From what i have seen on a woodworking site using contact cement is not a good way to do it. I think that some people use vacuum bagging but i am not sure if I want to go to that expense. I am thinking of applying the veener to the wood pieces before I miter them and was wondering idf anyone else does that. Also I would like to put new veener on some vintage cabinets and was wondering how that could be done.

Thanks
 
Yes, I use spray on contact adhesive, though you might use the brush on for larger areas if you wish.

Vacuum bagging can be difficult, not always ideal or worth the effort.

Score/ cut the excess from the back side with a fresh utility blade. Trim flush with a sharp chisel and break the edges with some sand paper.

I don't see the problem with using contact cement, we use it all the time in high end applications.

The problem with white glue is you will never get enough pressure on it to hold it flat while the glue drys. The glue will soak into the veneer and cause it to swell and buckle, even under tremendous weight.

One time the 4' x 8' sheets were unavailable in Sapele, so we tried to veneer our own to get by, vacuum machine, was way too slow, still buckled with the white glue. We tried to press the other sheets under a 12' high stack of 4' x 8' particle board, still no good.
 
You can use super 90 from 3m bought at any home depot. READ the directions. You have to spray both pieces and then let the glue set for a little time before applying the veneer to the other piece. Then apply with a roller or squeegee. If you half to make two pieces seem, overlap the two pieces first before glueing and cut them together. make sure you let the glue dry at least 24hours before you work on it. I highly recomend doing a test piece first.
 
I've built probably over a hundred pairs of speaker enclosures over the past 10 yrs and have had far more success with clothes iron and yellow or white wood glue than contact cement for veneer - particularly if applying an oil or solvent based finish on the veneer.

If for nothing else than working time for grain pattern alignment on a finished cabinet, I highly recommend it - there's no margin for error with contact cement, and some /sizes shapes of finished cabinets are tricky to get in a vacuum bag.
 
I just built a pair of speakers and applied the veneer before attaching the panels together. I made sure to file/sand the veneer edges flush with the panels first so they would fit snugly. It worked OK, although if I was to do it again I would apply the veneer after piecing everything together. I think I could have gotten more even veneer edges that way.
 
Pre-glued veneer is easiest (which means best)

Get yourself some veneer that is pre-glued. Then all you'll need is j-cloth and a hot clothes iron.
If you get paper-backed veneer using ordinary carpenter's glue (the white stuff) is just as good except that you have to apply the glue -evenly- yourself. Then all you'll need is j-cloth and a hot clothes iron.
Search the internets - all manner of information & some videos to boot.
Contact cement works but is tricky - best left to someone with experience, especially considering the cost of some veneers. If you make a mistake then you're stuck with it (pun intended.)

Fred P
 
I'm still waiting explanation of why "hubris" - yes - I (think I ) know what it normally means


frankly, I wouldn't bother with the j-cloth or a linen rags when using a clothes iron - I've actually found slight scorching to be handy in outlining boundaries of cutouts to be trimmed, and since I pencil mark each cut piece for grain alignment, all that easily sands out.
 
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