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Old 20th March 2012, 03:47 PM   #21
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ichi View Post
I use spray contact glue 3M90. Just spray, wait for five minutes and
mount the veneer using a rubber roller. Much easier that pva glue and its dry in
just 15 minutes.

yes, but the downsides are no room for error on grain alignment, and possible incompatibility with solvent based finishing materials (stains / lacquers etc)
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Old 20th March 2012, 04:01 PM   #22
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by ppfred View Post
Here is a good site for DIY veneering.


As long as you know what the end result will be you could scorch the wood . For a first timer I wouln't recommend it. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt (pun intended).

fair enough - but the degree of "scorching" I'm talking about is minimal, and with a little practice, you can even use the nose of the iron to pre-score the edges of cutouts on paper backed veneer, then trim out with sharp knife and 150 / 220 G sandpaper


IMG_0041.jpg

IMG_0043.jpg

IMG_0049.jpg
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Old 20th March 2012, 04:12 PM   #23
doorman is offline doorman  Canada
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Hey Chris, those Frugals look great!
Is that fir veneer?
Best
Don
Oh, yes, the hot iron / glue combination works beautifully, no nasty contact cement fumes either!
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Old 20th March 2012, 05:01 PM   #24
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Hey Chris, those Frugals look great!
Is that fir veneer?
Best
Don
Oh, yes, the hot iron / glue combination works beautifully, no nasty contact cement fumes either!

thanks, Don:

flat sliced oak with Watco Fruitwood and satin wax finish - for our friend Cal
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Old 20th March 2012, 09:04 PM   #25
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Ever used the iron on method for raw veneer? I have a bunch of birds eye maple. I've been trying with a caul and clamp with partial success on some trial pieces. Unsure how it's going to go on a larger piece.
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Old 20th March 2012, 09:41 PM   #26
doorman is offline doorman  Canada
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I usually use the paperbacked veneer, but have also used the hot-iron method for the 'raw" variety.
In truth though, I haven't done much with the latter, just a couple of projects.
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Don
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Old 20th March 2012, 09:44 PM   #27
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Ever used the iron on method for raw veneer? I have a bunch of birds eye maple. I've been trying with a caul and clamp with partial success on some trial pieces. Unsure how it's going to go on a larger piece.

yes, but only smaller pieces myself (repairs to a disintegrated VPI turntable base) -

vacuum bagging or weighted cold-press (several layers of MDF cauls, and sandbags, barbells, whatever you can devise) would be my best guess for that
note that if you could attain a pure vacuum, bagging would deliver 1 atmosphere of pressure - that's 14.6bs psi at sea level or over 2,100 lbs per square foot - hard to approach with cold press and weights.


the biggest issues were chipping on cross grain trimming - it just takes an extra step with careful trimming with veneer saw and sanding block


I work with paper (not phenolic) backed veneers for a lot of reasons, the ease of iron-on process and trimming among them
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Last edited by chrisb; 20th March 2012 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 20th March 2012, 09:50 PM   #28
ichi is offline ichi  Sweden
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I used 3M90 on my FH-3 with excelent result.
the best glue was that old hot glue made from animal hides or bones applied hot
but hard for a beginner. With hot glue you can apply heat and correct misstakes.
My dad was a carpenter making one off furniture with lots of inlays and he prefered the old school hot hide glue.
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Old 20th March 2012, 10:11 PM   #29
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by ichi View Post
I used 3M90 on my FH-3 with excelent result.
what type of finish did you use?

One of the reasons I'm trepidatious with solvent based contact cements (unless it says latex, it's likely still solvent carrier) is that our commercial millwork shop had exactly the issue I described above. A few years ago, solvent based stain & lacquer products applied on site by a separate finishing contractor caused de-lamination of paper backed sheet veneers on paneling. Finishing first and applying with contact cement after curing didn't seem to cause the same problem.

Quote:
the best glue was that old hot glue made from animal hides or bones applied hot
but hard for a beginner. With hot glue you can apply heat and correct misstakes.
My dad was a carpenter making one off furniture with lots of inlays and he prefered the old school hot hide glue.
Haven't tried that yet, or the veneer only glues like Titebond, BetterBond, etc.
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Old 20th March 2012, 10:34 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
that's 14.6bs psi at sea level or over 2,100 lbs per square foot - hard to approach with cold press and weights.
At work I have access to a press capable of over 200MPa (29,000psi) with a 8" diameter ram. Would that be enough?

Might give the cauls and cab some trouble
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