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Old 21st February 2012, 07:09 PM   #11
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Using Tap Magic I have gotten more than 25,000 holes out of a standard 10-32 tap.

The old books I have suggest lard mixed with kerosine. Tap Magic works much better.

The white water/lube mixture also acts as a coolant to extend bit life at higher cutting speeds. You can get more work done in an hour at the higher speeds but you get fewer pieces per bit.

But whatever works for you should be fine.
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Old 21st February 2012, 09:02 PM   #12
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Turpentine - the real stuff, made from pine sap, not the synthetic imitations - is hard to beat for thread cutting taps and dies. I can still get it at genuine hardware stores (a breed on the edge of extinction) as well as the national "home center" chains, without going to a specialty machine shop supplier.

Ever since an old machinist showed this technique to me decades ago, I have wondered why it works. The best theory I have is that the low viscosity, low surface tension turpentine can get right to the very point of cutting contact, where the heat of deformation vaporizes it and leaves behind a microscopic trace of pine resin. No way to test that theory, but if it's true there are probably other combinations of slick solid materials and suitable solvents that could give the same effect.

Dale
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Old 21st February 2012, 11:39 PM   #13
tvrgeek is offline tvrgeek  United States
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The can says "cutting oil." WD 40 is just what the name says "Water Displacement". It is not a lubricant. I also have used soapy water or anything at hand. I don't like really thin fluids that can flash. When tapping, I tend to use a heavier grease.
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Old 21st February 2012, 11:56 PM   #14
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The smell of WD40 gives me a nasty headache.
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Old 22nd February 2012, 12:09 AM   #15
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For tapping I use neat engine oil.

For latheing I use a mixture of water and oil.
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Old 22nd February 2012, 11:53 AM   #16
marce is offline marce  United Kingdom
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ISO and water mix will work for Ali
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