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Old 9th January 2012, 12:56 PM   #11
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IOW don't use the 7/64 drill as it will leave too little material to form threads of adequate depth. If you can't find the 2.5mm go with either a #40 (slightly undersize) or a #39 (slightly oversize).
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Old 9th January 2012, 01:01 PM   #12
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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7/64" drill = 2.778mm.
The 7/64" drill will measure very slightly smaller than this, possibly around 2.765 to 2.773
This leaves far too little engagement.
If you drill oversize due to errors then you could have almost no engagement.

Kevin is right !!!!
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Old 9th January 2012, 06:06 PM   #13
Lavcat is offline Lavcat  United States
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I have a related question: what size drill should I use to make a hole to pass an M3 screw? Exactly 3 mm, or larger?
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Old 9th January 2012, 06:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lavcat View Post
Exactly 3 mm, or larger?
Larger.

jeff
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Old 9th January 2012, 06:20 PM   #15
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In metric, I always drilled the hole 0.8 of the M size. The respective bits are readily available in hardware stores from Metriclandia.
For example M3 drill with 2.4mm, M4 drill with 3.2mm....
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Old 10th January 2012, 12:29 AM   #16
Lo_Tse is offline Lo_Tse  Canada
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Gentlemen,

Thank you for all the pointers. Much appreciated.

To make a hole for taping, is a dress press absolutely necessary (I know it is much easier) or can one get by with a cordless hand drill?

Lo_tse
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Old 10th January 2012, 12:32 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Lo_Tse View Post
Gentlemen,

To make a hole for taping, is a dress press absolutely necessary (I know it is much easier) or can one get by with a cordless hand drill?

Lo_tse
A hand drill might not drill a straight hole so a drill press is much better.

However, I have got away with a hand drill, I was just carefull to keep the drill steady.
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Old 10th January 2012, 12:34 AM   #18
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Default A worthwhile thread to read

Drilling and tapping Conrad heatsinks
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Old 10th January 2012, 12:52 AM   #19
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If you only have a hand drill you can get the closest to square drilling by placing the upright edge of a small engineers square next to the center puched mark for the hole. Use the vertical edge of the square as a reference to keep the bit aligned vertically in both the side to side & fore and aft planes. A drill press would produce a better result but you can get close with practice.
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Old 10th January 2012, 01:16 AM   #20
thov is offline thov  Denmark
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Working with aluminum there's no need for greasy lubricants - alcohol beats everything else.
Even your 12 year old Jack Daniels will do the trick, but ordinary household spirit is cheaper, cools effectively and evaporates leaving no trace.
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