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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Hartford, WI
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Well, here are my 5th generation speaker cables. Looking for advice on finishing the ends.
I came across a full roll of seriously nice cable that I wanted to build speaker cables from. According to the specs it is 10 gauge 43 strands, 99.99% pure copper with each strand silver plated. It is coated in silicone then fabric wrapped. I then wrapped both conductors in sleeving to hold together and soldered on heavy duty gold plated terminals. But I'm not 100% happy with 2 things: 1. Should the cables be twisted? I have another full roll of this cable in 14 gauge which would be a little easier to twist. Should I twist a pair of the 14 around the 10's? 2. I see alot of cables have a nice metal or wood termination at the ends where the 2 cables split out of. Is there any point in that other than decoration? I used heat shrink at the ends to bind the 2 cables into 1 at the point where the sleeve starts. Any other ideas to make the next set better? They sound great and I figure they should be able to carry some pretty serious power but I would always like to improve if I can as I still have 400 + feet of this cable left to play with. Thanks, Brian (will edit post and add images when I figure out how to do that.) |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Hartford, WI
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#3 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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What speakers & amp?
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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moved your thread to 'construction tips'
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lakewood, Ohio
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Twisting speaker cables (and power cables) is always a good idea.
Let's say about 1 to 4 twists per foot. I don't think that adding the 14AWG to the cable gains you much.
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Kevin |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lakewood, Ohio
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A four conductor 14AWG, wired in a star-quad arrangement would make a very nice speaker cable.
It would be a 11AWG equivalent, low induction, high capacitance, flexible speaker cable.
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Kevin |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Hartford, WI
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I would like them to be used for most any amp that I buy. I currently have a Pioneer, but have also used them on my Sansui and Yamaha. When I get my tube amp done they will go on it also.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Md
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When you make exotic wood blocks for the ends, you can them make up all kinds of stories about "natural, organic and warmth of wood". You could even come up with stories how you tried dozens of species to find the perfect harmony. Be sure to make them following Fibonacci sequence dimensions.
![]() To be totally realistic, you have built some very sweet 99.9% cables. Just use them and forget it. When you have a Krell powering some Wilsons, then worry about your cables. Just don't look inside your consumer receiver to see the 18 gauge wire that is not even soldered. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Hartford, WI
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Thanks for the info.
The other thing that I am not 100% happy with is the blue plastic wrap. The cables are coated in a really nice black fabric (i think it is kevlar or similar) that looks really nice. I was kind of looking for a different way to kep them together without wrapping them in sleeve. Something that would still let the fabric be seen. I tried tying them every 4 inches with a very thin stainless wire. (I had tried cable ties first but they were REALLY ugly. The wire worked but it seemed to cut into the fabric and damage it. ANy ideas out there? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Md
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Once upon a time, we used something called lacing cord. Not sure you can get it any more as everyone used zip ties. Maybe Spruce Aircraft would have it.
The blue is a tad garish. You can get similar mesh in black. How about just heavy black cotton thread? |
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