Glueing t-nuts

[tvrgeek]

I typically use t-nuts to hold the drivers in to my cabinets. I have had issues with them spinning or falling out, especially in MDF. So I tried a bit of epoxy. No good as the compliance of the MDF would break the bond.
My thought, a compliant glue like 3M automotive weatherstrip glue, what we used to call' black death" for it's ability to stick anything together forever.
Thoughts?

[ArtG]

If epoxy is failing due to lack of mechanical strength of MDF, it’s unlikely that any sort of adhesive will solve the problem.

I’d consider adding a small block of something such as poplar or maple, about 5/8” -3/4” thick, behind the MDF, and drilling the screw hole through both the MDF and the block, placing the T-Nut in the block. Good wood glue should hold the block in place as the clamping pressure of the screw/T-Nut will pull the two together. You could use the screw to clamp the block in place for glue drying, before the speaker is installed. Of course the edge of the block will need to be contoured to match the speaker opening.

[Enzo]

On commercial guitar amps and PA speakers, sometimes they drive a small wood/sheetmetal screw into the wood right beside the Tnut. The screwhead prevents the Tnut from backing out. I have also seen them use a couple heavy staples across the edge of the Tnut - the kind of staples they use in construction of the cabinetry.

As to glue, there is tensile strength and then there is shear strength. Tensile is pulling straight apart. Like the superglue ad with the big burly workman hanging from his hard hat by a drop of glue. That is tensile strength, superglue has that, can't pull it straight apart. Shear strength is against crosswise force. That same hat, which you can;t pull free, will come off if you twist it. Superglue has poor shear strength.

SO some wonderful bonds anything glue might hold onto most things, but that doesn't mean it won;t stretch when you turn the nut.

[Speedskater]

Somewhere on the West System site are the instructions:

WEST SYSTEM | Project for Epoxy

Or maybe it's in their 400 page online book, I'll look later.

[Andrew Eckhardt]

#10-32 Hurricane Nuts 50 Pcs. 081-1082

Part of the problem with "standard" T-nuts is the wedge shaped stamped spikes destroy the material all around the hole on the way in to begin with. After everything is good and crumbly you may as well forget it.


DAP Products - Construction Adhesives - DAP® Beats the Nail® All-Purpose Construction Adhesive

Don't let this stuff's uncured physical similarity to latex based window sealant fool you. If you do get it in the threads it will wipe out with water, but it cures like a rock.

You don't need epoxy.

[Speedskater]

Originally Posted by Speedskater

Somewhere on the West System site are the instructions:
WEST SYSTEM | Project for Epoxy
Or maybe it's in their 400 page online book, I'll look later.

Found the page:

WEST SYSTEM | Use Guides - Bonding Hardware

[Top Shelf]

PL 9000, works great.

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by Andrew Eckhardt

#10-32 Hurricane Nuts 50 Pcs. 081-1082

Part of the problem with "standard" T-nuts is the wedge shaped stamped spikes destroy the material all around the hole on the way in to begin with. After everything is good and crumbly you may as well forget it.

+1 on the Hurricane Nuts, or even better threaded inserts - although some types of the latter are a bit more of a pain to install by hand, any of these are much more reliable than T-Nuts



https://hachol02.hafeleonline.com/OA...DBA53DEEF5280D

[crispycircuit]

I use Gorilla glue around the base and shaft. Then pull into the wood with the screw and let dry overnite. But if your gonna keep taking it apart a lot use small sheet metal screw to hold it in place.

[Brian Oshman]

Duct tape.