Glueing t-nuts - Page 2

Andrew Eckhardt · 2nd January 2012, 09:52 PM

Beware those threaded inserts are cast zinc. All the weight and half the strength of iron. They can wear or strip more easily than steel.

The construction adhesives are designed to have higher bulk strength than "glue" which is meant to bond surfaces with minimum gap. If you manage to fill the area between the the hurricane nut and box material with the construction adhesive the area will be stronger than the unmodified box material. Most of the hurricane nuts I've seen have a relief stamped in front of them that traps a small volume of adhesive.

The PL9000 and other "brown" solvent based adhesives will work but even the "low volatiles" content types stink, beat on your brain, and are way harder to deal with if it comes in contact with something you're not trying to fasten... than the DAP product I mention. The DAP product does take a few weeks to reach full bulk strength (same with the other stuff, actually), but if your speakers fail and have to come back out that soon you have other troubles. Also the PL9000 etc. tends to foam a little (a side effect of "fast curing") in large volumes, which makes it weaker.

tvrgeek · 3rd January 2012, 12:25 AM

Used hurricane nuts. They spin. That is why I went looking for glue. As mentioned, spiked nuts can break out close to a cutout. Used west. Too brittle. The weatherstrip glue seemed to work fine. PL is a good thought.

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2nd January 2012, 09:52 PM	#11
Andrew Eckhardt diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: PA	Beware those threaded inserts are cast zinc. All the weight and half the strength of iron. They can wear or strip more easily than steel. The construction adhesives are designed to have higher bulk strength than "glue" which is meant to bond surfaces with minimum gap. If you manage to fill the area between the the hurricane nut and box material with the construction adhesive the area will be stronger than the unmodified box material. Most of the hurricane nuts I've seen have a relief stamped in front of them that traps a small volume of adhesive. The PL9000 and other "brown" solvent based adhesives will work but even the "low volatiles" content types stink, beat on your brain, and are way harder to deal with if it comes in contact with something you're not trying to fasten... than the DAP product I mention. The DAP product does take a few weeks to reach full bulk strength (same with the other stuff, actually), but if your speakers fail and have to come back out that soon you have other troubles. Also the PL9000 etc. tends to foam a little (a side effect of "fast curing") in large volumes, which makes it weaker.

3rd January 2012, 12:25 AM	#12
tvrgeek diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Md	Used hurricane nuts. They spin. That is why I went looking for glue. As mentioned, spiked nuts can break out close to a cutout. Used west. Too brittle. The weatherstrip glue seemed to work fine. PL is a good thought.

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