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Old 25th November 2011, 12:43 AM   #1
ljk11 is offline ljk11  Trinidad and Tobago
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Default Cutting 45's with a circular saw only ?

Hey guys,

Is it possible to make clean straight 45 degree cuts with a circular saw ?
I clamp a fence and run the saw alongside it but with angled cuts the blade always tends to flex and wander ever so slightly.

Also cutting a piece of wood with 45 on both sides is difficult as I have to flip it over and end falling piece is the desired piece.
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Old 25th November 2011, 03:30 PM   #2
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Yes, but it entirely depends on the saw. I find it's easier to use a router to get the angle perfect.
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Last edited by revboden; 25th November 2011 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 25th November 2011, 11:07 PM   #3
ljk11 is offline ljk11  Trinidad and Tobago
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was able to make good cuts by cutting shallow over multiple passes
cutting about 1/4" at a time.
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Old 26th November 2011, 01:21 AM   #4
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It sounds like the blade of your saw may not be parallel to the edge of the baseplate that rides against the fence. If this is the case the sawblade will be track to one side of the kerf and not want to ride straight. Measure the distance perpendicular to the edge of the baseplate to the front and back edges of the saw blade plate (the metal disc of the blade...not the edge of the teeth). It should be parallel within 1mm (if you are using a scale or within 0.2mm if you are using a digital caliper. Take the measurement at several positions of the blade to make sure the blade is not warped.
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Old 26th November 2011, 01:35 AM   #5
ljk11 is offline ljk11  Trinidad and Tobago
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I'll check that, however if I do a 45 cut which just barely trims the edge
the bevel comes out fine.

So usually I do a finishing cut. The problem is if I have to do another 45 on the other end of the piece.
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Old 26th November 2011, 02:12 AM   #6
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Try setting the saw at maximum depth. Like kevinahcc20 said, there may be a parallel issue because of the blade not perpendicular. A sharpe blade will help and use a high tooth count, 7 1/4"DIA. 30 to 40 teeth, it may be the blade is worn. Even pressure is key when cutting. Try setting the saw at maximum depth. Even pressure when cutting is the key.
The other end of the piece has to be cut on the other side. Make your first cut then flip the board over and cut going the other direction to the first cut. Use some making tape because you may raise an edge on the cross cut.
PeterC.
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Old 26th November 2011, 02:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ljk11 View Post
I'll check that, however if I do a 45 cut which just barely trims the edge
the bevel comes out fine.

So usually I do a finishing cut. The problem is if I have to do another 45 on the other end of the piece.
That makes sense since with a fine finishing cut the blade is not "trapped" in the kerf and the side forces generated during the cut would be lower than with a full cut.

Another thing that can be helpful is to make sure the bottom surface of the baseplate that rides on the workpiece is smooth and slick. If it isn't you can clean it up with very fine (400 grit or higher) silicon carbide sandpaper then lightly wax with beeswax and buff (don't use anything with synthetics or silicone as these can leave residues on the workpiece that can interfere with the finish). Also when you make the cut keep the force you use to push the saw through the cut light and steady and just maintain very gentle side pressure to keep the saw following the fence. If the force required to move the saw forward is high the blade is either not sharp or the saw has insufficient power for the width of the kerf. A quality fine-kerf blade could be of help in this case.
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Old 27th November 2011, 03:26 AM   #8
ljk11 is offline ljk11  Trinidad and Tobago
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I checked the blade and it is off front-back.
difference is about 1.5mm

Dunno if the base can be realigned.
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Old 27th November 2011, 03:55 AM   #9
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The saw may have been dropped at some point resulting in the misalignment. There should be a pivot at the front of the saw and a sliding bracket at the back that control the depth of cut adjustment. You may be able to correct the misalignment by clamping the base in a vise and applying pressure at the back of the saw handle in the direction that would bring the blade into alignment. Go slowly and measure after each nudge until the blade is parallel. If that doesn't work good news...you have reason to but a new saw!!
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Old 27th November 2011, 04:50 AM   #10
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I had this wierd image of trying to "cut" 45 RPM records using a circular saw... and I both remember 45's and own & know how to use a circular saw.
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