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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: USA
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I was unsoldering a capacitor in my preamp and did a little twist around to the other side of the lead with my wick. Bad move. View the picture to see the torn pad. It tore a piece of my pad up. So my question is two part.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Utah
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No problem... just scrape off a bit of the solder mask leading back to the other pad, trace will then tin okay. Lay a short section of lead against newly tinned trace and solder.
Doc
__________________
Ne timeas a facie mulierum ea ignorare |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: USA
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Ok. Great way to do that, better than what I was thinking. That would complete the trace back both ways to the C404 and R406. What is the best way to remove that solder mask?
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Utah
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From what I see they are the same. No need to go all the way, just say 1/4" or so. If you are really concerned with the ripped pad you can buy eyelets to repair it, but they are very pricey. I'd just clean off a bit of the trace. That can be done carefully with the tip of an exacto knife or with a small wire whip in a dremel.
Doc
__________________
Ne timeas a facie mulierum ea ignorare |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lansing, Michigan
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Or some fine grit emery paper.
One of my favorite is a fiberglass brush eraser. It is abrasive and will take that solder mask lacquer right off, but it is softer than the copper, so won;t abrade the copper away. Also great for shining up edge connector traces and other metal surfaces. They make them in fibergalss, as well as softer nylon, and brass, and even stainless steel bristles. Adjustable with refill and disposable. Here is my fave: [AA0020] E111/C Metal Body Coarse FybRglass® Eraser |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: USA
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Thanks to all you for your advice. I ended using very fine wet sand paper and it worked great. Back in business!
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