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#81 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Thanks pski, I had thought of using a biscuit jointer but I didn't think that I could get them to fit properly...the biscuits that is, even though I guess you could make small ones...unless what I am seeing in my head is different to what you are.
As I want the mitred sides/top/bottom to be on show I am warming to CALWeldon's idea of good old Duck Tape with an extra portion of fibreglass. Those cabinets he has turned out look pretty neat from where I am !! I would not have thought of doing it this way especially, as Cal says, the Duck tape on it's own is not strong enough to take any real sort of bonding pressure but this fibreglass tape sounds the biz. Cal, are all the joints safe and sound from just using these tapes or have I misunderstood ? Surely some clamping would be needed, no. Gareth |
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#82 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Flatrock Community, GA, USA
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Quote:
You don't make biscuits. You buy them. They come in standard sizes: 00, 0, 10, & 20 <smaller to largest> Check out youtube for videos but the basic idea is that the joiner cuts a slot that matches the size of the biscuit (half of it) and the "fence" of the joiner makes sure that the slots you cut are exactly the same distance from the edge. When you insert the biscuit(s,) the parts line up exactly square and the edges are exactly even. The "fence" of the joiner adjusts up and down (usually) to fixed locations that are set with notches. So if you want to biscuit a mitre joint, it's just as easy as a butt joint. The angle of the pieces and the biscuit looks like \-\ (if the slashes were 45%, the biscuit is perpendicular to the angles of the miter, sticking straight into each edge.) See this: Mitered woodworking joints | Woodworking joints This not only makes the joint stronger, it MAKES the boards line up at the edges while you clamp them. P |
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#83 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Hi Gareth,
Because the tape is applied while the pieces are face down, by the time you turn them over and roll them up, the tape is under a lot of tension creating a tight joint. The tape is the clamp(s). The small wood pieces in the 4th pic are there to hold it at the last joint and to help realign those little whoops' |
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#84 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
Gareth |
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#85 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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The receiving holes are on both sides and the biscuits fit into the slots created by the jointer. When using them on a corner mitre you also need the special clamps.
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#86 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Cheers Cal, with it now ! I take it that you are a big fan of these biscuits then ?
Gareth |
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#87 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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I don't use them any more. I never did on the mitres, only butt joints but I like the full cleats now.
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#88 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Flatrock Community, GA, USA
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Quote:
Of course, "picture frame clamps" x 2 work very well. The issue there is whether they are big enough x and y. P |
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#89 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Flatrock Community, GA, USA
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Quote:
Since the joint cannot go "back and forth," the boards have to line up across the edges if they are clamped correctly. Look carefully at the link in the other email. p |
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#90 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: New York city
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These days my biscuit joiner is mostly gathering dust. For most of what I do, pocket screws done with my Kreg jig work better, are faster and are even reversible.
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