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Old 22nd July 2011, 02:35 PM   #1
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Default How to secure driver to enclosure

Hello,

I am a first time builder - gonna build a pair of enclosures, full driver design.

Could anybody give some advice on how to secure the driver to the wood enclosure? I assume that one would use screws but should a bead of silicone sealer also be used between the driver and wood or should i make a gasket out of rubber and use that instead?

Also, what type of wire is used between the driver itself and the terminals? I assume that some type of shielded cable would be needed.

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 22nd July 2011, 04:13 PM   #2
boris81 is offline boris81  United States
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Check out the Enclosures section of Zaph audio's design mantras.
Zaph|Audio

I'm no expert but here are some basic guidelines:

You HAVE to countersink a fullrange driver(and all midranges and tweeters). Regular screws should be good enough. For a driver under 7" it's advisable to chamfer the inside edge of the opening for better airflow from the back. You should predrill the screw holes with a small drill because the wood might crack when you try to put a screw through it.

I've seen advise about pouring some wood glue in the screw holes for better support but I've never done it.

Any method that decouples the driver from the enclosure will reduce vibrations and result in better sound but there's no practical way to achieve a full separation. A rubber seal will help but won't eliminate the problem because the driver will still be coupled to the enclosure through the screws. The better approach is to stabilize the box itself by means of cross-bracing(not necessary for drivers <5") and spike feet.
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Old 22nd July 2011, 04:44 PM   #3
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Thanks Boris.

Sorry if my questions are dumb.

What i still don't understand is what you mean by countersinking the driver. The driver already comes with pre-drilled holes for mounting along with screws.

I am using MA Alpair 7 G3 - 4" drivers.

Are you saying that a have to countersink the driver's mounting holes? or countersink the holes in the cabinet?

If you are talking about countersinking the holes in the cabinet then i don't understand what purpose that serves.

Regards,
Steve
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Old 22nd July 2011, 05:00 PM   #4
N Brock is offline N Brock  United States
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I usually use wood screws with a black finish. Wood screws will hold the driver just fine. It is important to countersink the driver so it is flush with the cabinet. A router circle jig is the easiest way I have found to do this.

A lot of speakers come with a gasket, usually made of foam. Sillicone or rubber should be fine, but sometimes I skip a gasket completely.

Regular stranded wire is fine, sheilding won't do much here, that's more for signal level connections. Just use copper wire of a decent gauge.

-Nelson
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Old 22nd July 2011, 05:28 PM   #5
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Ah, now i understand.

Thanks guys for the information!!!

I am quite excited about this project!
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Old 22nd July 2011, 05:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clipsemeister View Post
I am using MA Alpair 7 G3 - 4" drivers.
All MA driver scan with a set of Allen headed/hex screws. You'll need a metric wrench.

Quote:
Are you saying that a have to countersink the driver's mounting holes? or countersink the holes in the cabinet?
The baffle should be rebated such that the driver bezel is flush. The fixing holes on the A7 are already recessed.

For wire we use single strands from solid core CAT5 (2 or 3 starnds -- extra strand on the ground if you use 3). People that have switched from more conventional wire to the skinny stuff have almost with out exception noted improvement.

dave
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Old 22nd July 2011, 06:33 PM   #7
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Dave,

Referring to CAT5 - are you referring to CAT 5 Coax cable?
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Old 22nd July 2011, 10:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clipsemeister View Post
Dave,

Referring to CAT5 - are you referring to CAT 5 Coax cable?
Cat 5 cable is not Coax. It is called UTP- unshielded twisted pair.

Category 5 cable - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Jeff
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Old 22nd July 2011, 10:27 PM   #9
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Note that the outer bezel on latest version of the Alpair 7 come in 2 pieces. Unless you really want to see the embossed logos on the outer ring (they are very pretty), I'd plan on using them without. They add 1.5mm to depth and 5mm to outside diameter.

Allow approx 1mm larger diameter hole if rebating the drivers (makes them much easier to remove if needed), and be sure to very carefully handle the drivers, and cover them when installing the mounting screws.
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Last edited by chrisb; 22nd July 2011 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 24th July 2011, 04:07 AM   #10
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Guys,

Thank you very much for your responses - very useful information.

I will post pictures when i'm done with the project.

Regards,
Steve
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