Hello,
I am a first time builder - gonna build a pair of enclosures, full driver design.
Could anybody give some advice on how to secure the driver to the wood enclosure? I assume that one would use screws but should a bead of silicone sealer also be used between the driver and wood or should i make a gasket out of rubber and use that instead?
Also, what type of wire is used between the driver itself and the terminals? I assume that some type of shielded cable would be needed.
Thanks,
Steve
I am a first time builder - gonna build a pair of enclosures, full driver design.
Could anybody give some advice on how to secure the driver to the wood enclosure? I assume that one would use screws but should a bead of silicone sealer also be used between the driver and wood or should i make a gasket out of rubber and use that instead?
Also, what type of wire is used between the driver itself and the terminals? I assume that some type of shielded cable would be needed.
Thanks,
Steve
Member
Joined 2009
Check out the Enclosures section of Zaph audio's design mantras.
Zaph|Audio
I'm no expert but here are some basic guidelines:
You HAVE to countersink a fullrange driver(and all midranges and tweeters). Regular screws should be good enough. For a driver under 7" it's advisable to chamfer the inside edge of the opening for better airflow from the back. You should predrill the screw holes with a small drill because the wood might crack when you try to put a screw through it.
I've seen advise about pouring some wood glue in the screw holes for better support but I've never done it.
Any method that decouples the driver from the enclosure will reduce vibrations and result in better sound but there's no practical way to achieve a full separation. A rubber seal will help but won't eliminate the problem because the driver will still be coupled to the enclosure through the screws. The better approach is to stabilize the box itself by means of cross-bracing(not necessary for drivers <5") and spike feet.
Zaph|Audio
I'm no expert but here are some basic guidelines:
You HAVE to countersink a fullrange driver(and all midranges and tweeters). Regular screws should be good enough. For a driver under 7" it's advisable to chamfer the inside edge of the opening for better airflow from the back. You should predrill the screw holes with a small drill because the wood might crack when you try to put a screw through it.
I've seen advise about pouring some wood glue in the screw holes for better support but I've never done it.
Any method that decouples the driver from the enclosure will reduce vibrations and result in better sound but there's no practical way to achieve a full separation. A rubber seal will help but won't eliminate the problem because the driver will still be coupled to the enclosure through the screws. The better approach is to stabilize the box itself by means of cross-bracing(not necessary for drivers <5") and spike feet.
Thanks Boris.
Sorry if my questions are dumb.
What i still don't understand is what you mean by countersinking the driver. The driver already comes with pre-drilled holes for mounting along with screws.
I am using MA Alpair 7 G3 - 4" drivers.
Are you saying that a have to countersink the driver's mounting holes? or countersink the holes in the cabinet?
If you are talking about countersinking the holes in the cabinet then i don't understand what purpose that serves.
Regards,
Steve
Sorry if my questions are dumb.
What i still don't understand is what you mean by countersinking the driver. The driver already comes with pre-drilled holes for mounting along with screws.
I am using MA Alpair 7 G3 - 4" drivers.
Are you saying that a have to countersink the driver's mounting holes? or countersink the holes in the cabinet?
If you are talking about countersinking the holes in the cabinet then i don't understand what purpose that serves.
Regards,
Steve
I usually use wood screws with a black finish. Wood screws will hold the driver just fine. It is important to countersink the driver so it is flush with the cabinet. A router circle jig is the easiest way I have found to do this.
A lot of speakers come with a gasket, usually made of foam. Sillicone or rubber should be fine, but sometimes I skip a gasket completely.
Regular stranded wire is fine, sheilding won't do much here, that's more for signal level connections. Just use copper wire of a decent gauge.
-Nelson
A lot of speakers come with a gasket, usually made of foam. Sillicone or rubber should be fine, but sometimes I skip a gasket completely.
Regular stranded wire is fine, sheilding won't do much here, that's more for signal level connections. Just use copper wire of a decent gauge.
-Nelson
All MA driver scan with a set of Allen headed/hex screws. You'll need a metric wrench.
The baffle should be rebated such that the driver bezel is flush. The fixing holes on the A7 are already recessed.
For wire we use single strands from solid core CAT5 (2 or 3 starnds -- extra strand on the ground if you use 3). People that have switched from more conventional wire to the skinny stuff have almost with out exception noted improvement.
dave
Cat 5 cable is not Coax. It is called UTP- unshielded twisted pair.
Category 5 cable - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jeff
Note that the outer bezel on latest version of the Alpair 7 come in 2 pieces. Unless you really want to see the embossed logos on the outer ring (they are very pretty), I'd plan on using them without. They add 1.5mm to depth and 5mm to outside diameter.
Allow approx 1mm larger diameter hole if rebating the drivers (makes them much easier to remove if needed), and be sure to very carefully handle the drivers, and cover them when installing the mounting screws.
Allow approx 1mm larger diameter hole if rebating the drivers (makes them much easier to remove if needed), and be sure to very carefully handle the drivers, and cover them when installing the mounting screws.
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Yes. Natural fibre (wool or cotton) is quite a bit better than the synthetics.
dave
I am building from the plan "Wide Classic GR dMar-Ken7 0v91" (http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/downloads/ClassicGR-MarKen10g2-map-080211.pdf)
I am using MDF veneered with Bubinga, with the exception of the front panel which will be made from solid Maple and Tulipwood. The tulipwood is a very hard hardwood and is being used more for aesthetic purposes.
I am using MDF veneered with Bubinga, with the exception of the front panel which will be made from solid Maple and Tulipwood. The tulipwood is a very hard hardwood and is being used more for aesthetic purposes.
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