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#1 |
diyAudio Member
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I have searched high and low (maybe not high or low enough) but cant seem to find the answer to this.
When drillling holes for the screw, do you let the teeth of the screw bite into the wood or the hole should large enough to let the screw slide freely into the hole and then bite into the t-nut. Application is for a 15 inch SEALED sub, hence the idea of having a tight fit for the screw.
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na Last edited by qguy; 10th July 2011 at 04:47 PM. |
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#2 |
Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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The wood hole is to allow the screw to pass freely. If you let the wood bind you may end up with difficulty getting the screw to engage with the t-nut when it hits it, as the threads could be misaligned.
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, modules and more. |
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#3 |
R.I.P.
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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the Tnut diameter determines the diameter of the hole in the back of the panel.
You could, in fairly thick panels, drill two diameters. One just deep enough for the Tnut and the other drilled all the way through for the bolt.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#4 |
R.I.P.
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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What the heck is that noise?
Oh it's two Chinooks passing overhead. Amplifier is OK !
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regards Andrew T. |
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#5 | |
Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
I think this is an unnecessary step. What might be the advantage? |
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#6 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA
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No need to worry about leakage, t-nut flange and screw threads will seal things up nicly when it's properly torqued down.
Mike |
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#7 |
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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With a t-nut i always pull the nut into place with a sacrifical bolt & a washer. Slow & steady to ensure it is seated. Nothing worse that a t-nut coming loose inside the box with the driver in place.
One of the reasons we use inserts instead of t-nuts. dave
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#8 |
Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Put a dab of construction adhesive on the flange when you torque it in. But yes, threaded inserts are nice. Do use a jig like this?
http://www.woodsmith.com/files/issue...sed-panels.pdf |
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#9 | |
R.I.P.
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Quote:
This is usually achieved by truncating the tip of the male thread. There is an exception BSP pipe threads where the male and female thread are made to be close replica of each other so that a gas tight joint can be made usually with some filler in the threaded joint. I think NSP also fall into this gas tight category.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#10 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Antonio
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The method I use is to drill a hole according to the diameter of the T-nut, then I use a C-clamp to firmly seat the T-nut into the hole. A washer or coin opposite the T-nut can protect the wood from the C-clamp. Works like a charm.
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It is error only, and not truth, that shrinks from enquiry. - Thomas Paine |
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