how not to brace a sub cabinet

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The subs I was designing were already larger than I wanted, so the goal was to get the best bracing possible for the least amount of added weight and volume. I figured the most efficient brace was a simple side-to-side stick. I also figured that for a given weight&volume, many thin braces would be more effective than fewer thicker braces.

It took 56 (8 X 7) braces per cabinet (I made 2). It was too difficult to get the length just perfect to be snug without bending the cabinet walls, so I had to use metal corner braces & screws to to attach half the braces (braces for my braces) to the walls, then lay perpendicular braces across them and attach with glue & screws. So that's 56 metal braces and 112 1/2" screws, then 112 (16 X 7) longer screws to attach perpendicular braces (per cabinet).

It looked entirely reasonable on paper. It took most of 2 days just to add braces, including including trying lots ideas that didn't work and repeated trips the hardware store. Now I'm too tired of working on them to finish them up today.

I do not recommend this as a construction technique. Sure, the cabinets are rock solid with minimum extra weight, but it's probably excessive. I should have allowed for a few extra liters of space or settled for a little more resonance and used fewer, thicker braces, or used one of the hole-filled-board designs.

I'll publish a proper build thread when I'm done, but for now I don't want to spend another minute in the workshop.:whazzat:
 

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Hi Cal,

Thanks for the kind words. I would certainly use fewer, thicker braces. I know you are a fan of offsetting braces to split up the resonances, so if I used fewer braces I would probably do that. I think in this case, there is no resonance to split up!

I checked out your link and was really impressed with the quantity and quality of work you've done. You'll be my go-to guy for construction techniques.

-Byron
 
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