MDF, GLUE and nails

[qguy]

Project Subwoofer for 15 inch driver

Tools. Jigsaw, hand saw, straight edges and 90 degree rulers

steps

1. Cut the 4 outer panels.
2. cut the top and bottom + extra baffle for rebatted driver installation
3. drill holes using jigsaw for plate amp and driver
4. Glue 2 baffles together, i can put weights here
5. pre-drill holes for nails or screws for outer panel
6. assemble 4 outer panels and bottom cover with PVA glue and screws
7. cut braces
8. install brace Do i still need to nails/screw the braces ?
9. Install top cover with pva glue

questions

1. what kind of nails or screw do i need ?
2. how long should they be ? Diameter ?
3. if the lenght of one side is 18 inches , how many nails/screws would this require ?
4. Would i just need a couple of nails to hold the panels while the glue dries ?

sounds good ?

[Loren42]

I use an 18 gauge nail gun. These nails are coated with a glue. The heat from friction when fired into the wood melts the glue so the nails slide in, then re-hardens making a very tight bond.

When I nail wood it is to act like a clamp until the glue dries. I put in enough nails to make the wood bind tight together and squeeze out any residual glue.

Screws into MDF do not bite well. You can cross drill a larger hole in the MDF, then glue in a hard wood dowel peg into the wood, then drill the hole for the screw. This works much better and both ends of the dowel can be sanded flush with the MDF.

Be sure to wear a mask when cutting MDF. The dust is not good for you.

Another thought is to use a hardwood in all the interior corners as a brace between connection MDF boards. I use 1 X 2 or smaller with copious amounts of glue.

Many people use large clamps to assemble their cabinets. If you can borrow clamps it is a very good idea.

[Cal Weldon]

I use inside cleats and install them on one panel first. Then I glue and clamp and fire the Brad nails on the inside, release the clamps and go onto the next panel. Super fast, easy, very strong, self aligning and no exposed fasteners.

Use plywood.

Get a circular saw and a straight edge or sawboard you can clamp in place for cutting. Nice cuts, relatively inexpensive and easier than a table saw which can be somewhat tricky if your experience is limited, not to mention expensive.

Cheers

[nigelwright7557]

I dont use glue just 2inch by 2 inch bracing and wood screws.
I make sure everything is tightened up to seal the box.
Jigsaw to cut out the baffle hole.
I finish by covering in thin carpet stapled on.

[digits]

I think those screw in T-nuts are nasty, and no use for good prescision.
The proper fixture for wood is barrel nuts, also called cross nuts.
The only downside is that it leaves an exposed (screwtop, the top of the nut, used for alignment).

I attach two images of how they are used normally...

[Cal Weldon]

digits,
You would use this method if you are gluing? I've seen it on IKEA type furniture but not glued boxes.

[digits]

I thought the OP was looking for a way to Make a box he could open and close. I reccon with some gasket material, it may be good enough for a airtight seal, as you could tighten the nuts way beyond what you could do with one of those T nut jobbies.

[Cal Weldon]

OK, I didn't catch that part.

[qguy]

nope... plain sealed sub, got no clamps hence the screw/nails to clamp it while the glue dries..

Originally Posted by digits

I thought the OP was looking for a way to Make a box he could open and close. I reccon with some gasket material, it may be good enough for a airtight seal, as you could tighten the nuts way beyond what you could do with one of those T nut jobbies.

[digits]

No harm done, the point of sites like these I guess, is to share knowledge of tools, parts and methods, even if one only banks the knowledge for future use.