Yes clamps are the ticket to a good project. Bar clamps are by far the cheapest around, I bought a new pair at woodworking show recently for $5 bucks (you do have to supply/find pipe).
The Jorgensen Clamps are certainly top notch, cabinet shop grade, but the cost went way up on them. They make look-a-like clamps, but they bend and don’t last long.
I haven’t seen any one mention the Gorilla Glue (polyurethane glue), it’s a little messy, but the glue will fill any gaps you may have. Don’t forget to wet the edge of the wood with water before using! Oh boy, it is strong!!
There’s another trick I use for the inside of cabinets, especially if you’re not sure the box is sealed - pick up a can of undercoating at an auto store (it doesn’t cost much). It takes a while to dry, set the box in the sun for a while if you can; let it harden up before final assembly. The product is also good for dampening, to a small degree.
The Jorgensen Clamps are certainly top notch, cabinet shop grade, but the cost went way up on them. They make look-a-like clamps, but they bend and don’t last long.
I haven’t seen any one mention the Gorilla Glue (polyurethane glue), it’s a little messy, but the glue will fill any gaps you may have. Don’t forget to wet the edge of the wood with water before using! Oh boy, it is strong!!
There’s another trick I use for the inside of cabinets, especially if you’re not sure the box is sealed - pick up a can of undercoating at an auto store (it doesn’t cost much). It takes a while to dry, set the box in the sun for a while if you can; let it harden up before final assembly. The product is also good for dampening, to a small degree.
The issue I have with those products is that they outgas VOCs and they may attack the glues used in the driver over time.
I usually apply a small 1/4 round or square stock on the inside corners with copious amounts of glue to strengthen the corners and insure air tight bonds.
I made a "door board" after seeing this video when trying to figure out how to cut a straight edge with my circular saw. Works like a charm, highly recommended.
MAKING STRAIGHT CUTS WITH A HOMEMADE JIG - YouTube
the way I build my cabinet:
- I make a precise cutting plan: it's worthed to spend some time doing this ,
so everything fits well when assembling.
- I go to a lumber hard to have all my panels cut: they have these big wall saw that
cuts very precisely ( With my ability, it's a solution where you get everything
very well cut for a small amount of money). I just make , with a table saw, some
adjustment cut when needed and cut the drivers' holes with a Jasper circle jig and
a router.
- I assemble all the panels with clamps and glue only ( no nails nor screws)
- I use birch plywood (3/4 inch) : 3 panels thick (massive) with green glue.
_important is the planning before having the wood cut.
- I make a precise cutting plan: it's worthed to spend some time doing this ,
so everything fits well when assembling.
- I go to a lumber hard to have all my panels cut: they have these big wall saw that
cuts very precisely ( With my ability, it's a solution where you get everything
very well cut for a small amount of money). I just make , with a table saw, some
adjustment cut when needed and cut the drivers' holes with a Jasper circle jig and
a router.
- I assemble all the panels with clamps and glue only ( no nails nor screws)
- I use birch plywood (3/4 inch) : 3 panels thick (massive) with green glue.
_important is the planning before having the wood cut.
I haven't seen anyone here suggest use of urethane (Gorilla, Pro etc) glue. While pricey it will strengthen your joints about 300% while also sealing any air leaks in the joints. Wear gloves while using it as it takes weeks to wear off skin. A quick sponge dampening of the wood before application also helps it work better.
GSM (Good uh.. Stuff Manard).
Doc
GSM (Good uh.. Stuff Manard).
Doc
I did also mention gorilla glue, yeah it cool, a bit messy, after about a week the stuff is concrete hard. Typically I’ll start with a big side e.g. 12” x 18”, lay that down. Cut the “rips” for the top, bottom, front back, port if it a slot vent. Do the best you can gluing the rips down the 12” x 18” side, let that dry. You’ll want to cut the last side bigger, something like 12 ¼ x 18 1/4”, the overhang is important because the cabinet is probably out of square slightly, etc. Use flush cut router OR belt sander to trim it up, pad sand to a smooth finish is so desired.
Here’s a handy router bit I found, ordered two yesterday: http://www.amanatool.com/routerbits/down-shear-trimmer-47094.html
"Make It So Number 1." --- Capt. Picard, USS Enterprise
Here’s a handy router bit I found, ordered two yesterday: http://www.amanatool.com/routerbits/down-shear-trimmer-47094.html
"Make It So Number 1." --- Capt. Picard, USS Enterprise
I guess if there was a test, hard to say. I’ve built so many speakers; some of the duds must go. I’ve had to break some apart with a hammers, it’s not easy!!
You have to admit the gorilla glue does fill gaps, which would be good for beginners.
I do use regular tight bond, yes folks take your time, let the glue soak in, use a small brush. I glued two ½ MDF boards end to end the other day with yellow glue, gave it a good test shake (I’m 250lb) it didn’t break.
You have to admit the gorilla glue does fill gaps, which would be good for beginners.
I do use regular tight bond, yes folks take your time, let the glue soak in, use a small brush. I glued two ½ MDF boards end to end the other day with yellow glue, gave it a good test shake (I’m 250lb) it didn’t break.
I like gorilla glue, its fast messy and fun (and fills the imperfect bits), I was surprised by the results of the test as I thought it would be one of the strongest.
Of course most speakers wont see the strain the joints were put under for the tests.
Once used some 3M double sided fam tape to fix a temporary baffle for some OB experiments and when I tried to part the pieces the wood (25mm MDF) gave in first!
Of course most speakers wont see the strain the joints were put under for the tests.
Once used some 3M double sided fam tape to fix a temporary baffle for some OB experiments and when I tried to part the pieces the wood (25mm MDF) gave in first!
I going to get some small MDF cabinets Powder Coated and was told that if I use brad nails that it will swell and raise the surface even if the nail is deep and filled with wood filler...
I'm veneering a few of same MDF cabinets and would like to know if anyone has used brad nails and later seen the veneer develop a bump from the nail? Maybe you used brad nails and didn't see a bump later which better beacuse I have some made with brad nails already and plan to veneer them..
Thanks, Joel
I'm veneering a few of same MDF cabinets and would like to know if anyone has used brad nails and later seen the veneer develop a bump from the nail? Maybe you used brad nails and didn't see a bump later which better beacuse I have some made with brad nails already and plan to veneer them..
Thanks, Joel
Powder coating, as I understand it, can only be done on conductive metal. You must be using another process.
I have no idea about the swelling issue. That sounds strange, but MDF, when wet, will swell. So, perhaps the paint you are talking about might do that.
The only way a nail will produce a bump in the veneer is if it works its way out.
I use Baltic Birch, so I do not have a reference for nails popping out.
Don't know what process is going to be used to finish your cabinets, Joel, but the only situation I can perceive is that the finish is water based (low VOC?). The mdf will swell (even if slightly), and supposedly 'pull' the brad with it, which will stay 'out' when the mdf 'shrinks'. That's the only issue I can see with veneer as well .. so best to use solvent based adhesives.
Never had that problem.
The minute amount of water contained in a water based finishing "paint" is not enough to cause that, by a long way.
Or simply glueing or painting with latex or similar would have even worse effect ... yet nothing like that happens.
You'd need to leave them in the rain, then dry in the scorching Sun for something like that happening.
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