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Old 17th January 2013, 10:41 PM   #51
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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Well, in the big distribution we got late for any kind of forests , so all we got was a ton of flat grassland, perfect for quality crops and raising grass fed cattle, with mild summers and winters .
Thinking twice, not a bad deal
But since we lack quality hardwoods (which everybody around seems to have) we import construction grade plywood and OSB from Brazil ... and pay for it Baltic Birch prices.
While our land is very good for fast growth trees.
Only problem, it's soft wood only suitable for crates, fruit packing cases, MDF/chipboard or paper paste.
Oh well.

I have used thin plywood (3/8" to 1/2") for some customers, *only* because of the weight savings, if they travel by plane a lot.
In those cases, preferred covering was laminating fiberglass reinforced polyester straight over the wood.
Not pretty looking, but Pros don't need to impress friends and family, these are well worn and loved worktools.
Laminating 4" to 6" strips on the inside along all angles adds a lot of strength but little weight.
Oh well.
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Old 17th January 2013, 10:46 PM   #52
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prairieboy,
You are very correct about the shellac and I have used it both ways, coming already in liquid form and also as flakes. I haven't used it much on wood, a few times is all, but I used it often in the aerospace tooling realm as a sealer for plaster patterns. I have never heard about the wax trick, I will have to remember that from now on. I never thought that it would be from a wax in the shellac. I have found though that thinner coats are much better than a very high concentration of shellac to alcohol ratio. Perhaps we were just precipitating the wax out by using a low percentage of shellac to alcohol ratio.
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Old 17th January 2013, 10:54 PM   #53
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FM,
You can send some of that grass feed beef this way if you don't mind.......

You are very correct that a thin layer of fiberglass and polyester resin would significantly strengthen the enclosures. I guess you could laminate a film onto the enclosures but wouldn't be a strong as the fiberglass so it would just be cosmetic. The biggest problem with most plywood is just from the mishandling of the wood and storage, So many times you will find the sheets are so warped that they are just a pain to work with. Most wood yards just stack the sheets with a fork-lift and have the stringers the sheets are laying on to far apart and the sheets just get ruined. I have even seen this with some of the Baltic birch sheets that come out of Russia. Beautiful wood ruined by lazy habits.
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Old 28th January 2013, 02:15 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling View Post
On the brad nailing.. I wont do it again and was trying to have speed for some small cabs but not crazy about fasteners in cabinets..
Brad nails are fine if used onn the inside of the cabs.
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Originally Posted by Kindhornman View Post
Ever had a nail buzz in a plywood enclosure such as a bass bin?
No.
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Originally Posted by Kindhornman View Post
A temporary method of clamping could be to use a strap and clamp system
Straps are good, so is 'tape and roll' with cleats if the box is not square. I don't have full pics here at the office but if I remember when I get home... It's a great method if you are careful.
Quote:
If you use screws
These seems old fashioned to me. If you don't have the necessary tools, fine but otherwise, how long do you want your project to take?
Quote:
The glue lines will often show
Keep your wood inside for 2 weeks before starting.
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Originally Posted by Kindhornman View Post
FM,
Beautiful wood ruined by lazy habits.
Lazy habits? I call them lazy a******s.
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Old 28th January 2013, 03:46 PM   #55
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Tape and roll.
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Old 28th January 2013, 09:27 PM   #56
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Hmmm, somebody's been busy ...
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Old 3rd February 2013, 02:28 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post
Project Subwoofer for 15 inch driver

Tools. Jigsaw, hand saw, straight edges and 90 degree rulers
?
I would NEVER suggest using a jigsaw. Unless you are expert with hand-saws, forget it,

The depot where you bought the board ought to have a service to cut - else find some-one who can. Don't f*rt around.
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Old 3rd February 2013, 02:33 AM   #58
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f*rt
You know KM, we really crack down on language like that. We'd appreciate if you smarten the **** up when positing here.
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Old 3rd February 2013, 02:41 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post
Project Subwoofer for 15 inch driver

[1]Glue 2 baffles together, i can put weights here
[2]install brace Do i still need to nails/screw the braces ?
[3]Install top cover with pva glue

[a]what kind of nails or screw do i need ?
[b]how long should they be ? Diameter ?
[c]if the lenght of one side is 18 inches , how many nails/screws would this require ?
[d]Would i just need a couple of nails to hold the panels while the glue dries ?
1 - I would definitely hold in place, until the glue has set, with a nail or two

2 - see 1

3 - I did not. I secure my top with angle iron on the sides and top, with holes for bolts. A wide rubber gasket went between the top and cover. Bolt the cover to the 'top' and there ya go.

a - wood screws? I used finishing nails - to hold until the glue set - pre-drill the brace to allow easier nailing. I hammered down the nails until they were flush. I was afraid that common nails might vibrate [unless really flush, which is not always easy to do} and add undue sound.

b - just long enough to go thru the brace and penetrate the side without coming out. Get a variety of lengths.

c - if the brace is to be nailed flat against the side? I would nail every 6 inches or so. Two nails per.

d - I would
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