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Old 27th June 2011, 06:20 AM   #11
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I second Cal's suggestion to purchase a circular saw and guide. Presumably your cabinet is large, and long straight lines with a jigsaw are impossible. Even with a guide, the blade will bend. Thrift stores are good places to find used tools. I've always used 1.5" or 2" flat-head wood screws - #8 or #10 I think - on MFD. You'll need to pre-drill and counter sink the holes to keep the wood from splitting. As Loren42 said, screws do not "bite" well in MDF, which means you'll need a lot of them - like one very 3-4 inches. And it's easy to overtighten and strip the wood. I hope you have strong wrists! I've never taken the screws out.

Cal: I just so happen to have spent the day cutting boards for my big subs, and I want to not use screws for the first time. I'm using 3/4" oak plywood. I'm not clear on your suggestion. What is a cleat and what is a brad nail? When you say "fire the Brad nails" does that mean you use a nail gun? Do I need a nail gun? Any info would be helpful.

Thanks, Byron

And good luck qguy.
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Old 27th June 2011, 03:50 PM   #12
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Cleats are the small strip of wood on the inside corners. See pic. They could be called inside corner blocking but that takes too much time to type.
Brad nailer is a small nail gun for finish work. The nails have almost no head.
Fire means use a gun yes.
Use 1 1/4" nails on 3/4" material and clamp (sometimes you can use straps) before you nail where possible.
Put braces (either stick braces or shelf braces) in front to back and side to side spacing them unevenly to break it up into different panel sizes
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Old 27th June 2011, 07:24 PM   #13
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I am planning to round off the corners. What if I add glue and put 3 regular nails to hold the pieces together until the glue sets and then remove the nails ?

Can someone explain to me e why I need to put several dozens screws when the glue would be enough ? unless I am wrong about the glue.

Thanks
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Old 27th June 2011, 07:57 PM   #14
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Cal: Thanks, I'll try that, though I don't think I'll buy a nail gun.

qguy: I don't know that you'll need a wood screw every 3-4 inches in addition to glue. I mentioned it because it's what I've always done and you won't need clamps and it has always worked well with MDF. You stated in your first post you planned to use wood screws and didn't mention clamps. If you go with wood screws instead of nails or clamps, you will need a lot of them because each one will be weak. Also, if your cut is not super straight, the closely-spaced screws will pull the other board along the crooked cut's profile, reducing gaps.

It sounds like others have had good results using nails and/or clamps, so the screws are just another option.
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Old 27th June 2011, 08:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post
What if I add glue and put 3 regular nails to hold the pieces together until the glue sets and then remove the nails ?
Sure but space your nails no more than about every 6 inches. No need to remove them unless you are planning to nail on the outside. Removing nails can damage your wood so most will use screws.

Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post
Can someone explain to me e why I need to put several dozens screws when the glue would be enough ? unless I am wrong about the glue.
Yes the glue is all you need but it has to be clamped. An excess of glue in a joint that is not tightly butted is weaker not stronger than a light film of glue squeezed tightly between boards. The screws are there in place of clamps. You can remove them later if you want to. In fact it will make filling the holes easier as filler often delaminates from the screw head.

I would think you still want to buy or even rent a brad nailer system. It really cuts down on the work assembling the boxes so you get to this stage much faster:
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Old 27th June 2011, 08:28 PM   #16
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I should have read Byron's post before I typed my response to q. Might have saved myself some time.
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Old 27th June 2011, 08:28 PM   #17
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I'd have to sleep with many people to afford all those speakers, I see you have a matress handy
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Old 27th June 2011, 08:32 PM   #18
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digits my friend you wouldn't believe how much speaker crap I have collected. Have a look in my sig line.

Cheers.
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Old 27th June 2011, 08:41 PM   #19
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No, it will just make me turn green.
I only have a set of Kirkseaters and another DIY one thats pretty crappy.
Still got to get the router to finish the Goodmans boxes.
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Old 3rd August 2011, 12:38 PM   #20
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Default clamps, cross-linked PVA

Quote:
Originally Posted by Loren42 View Post
Many people use large clamps to assemble their cabinets. If you can borrow clamps it is a very good idea.
Clamps are not expensive, compared to the overall cost of cabinets and drivers. If you are going to build more that one set of speakers its worthwhile investing in a set.

Clamps can be adjusted to provide the just the right amount of pressure and the panels can be aligned perfectly (which is much harder to achieve with nails or screws).

I always use cross-linked PVA glue as it sets quickly and is thicker than normal PVA, so it is able to bridge and fill any gaps (unlike normal PVA which just soaks in or runs out the tiniest gaps, and requiring multiple reapplications to fill it up).
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