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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sydney
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Hi all,
I'm in the process of assembling my cabinets for a nice pair of floorstanders. I'd like to make the back panel easily removable - preferably without using screws direct into MDF, as I expect that eventually, with numerous opening and closings, it will eventually strip the inside thread from the MDF. So what alternatives does everyone use for securely attaching a fairly heavy back panel? Apparently there are specialty biscuits around that allow for it, but I can't find them anywhere (googling gives lots of hits on the Ice Vo Vo type of biscuit and little on the sort of specialty biscuits I'm looking for) Thanks guys |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA
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Have you considered using "T" nuts?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Oakmont PA
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Peruse the McMaster-Carr website, there are only three fasteners known to man that are not in their inventory! (Humor for those from Manchester.) You should be able to figure out what you want to use and then locate it a bit closer.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Christchurch
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That's an awesome website. I can use their M5 threaded rods to hold my stacked CNC cut panels! Thanks.
edit : Do you know if they ship worldwide?
__________________
Sand till the end of time
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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Threaded inserts with the right length of screws are very handy for this.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sydney
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Those threaded inserts are exactly the sort of thing that I wanted - I assume that T-nuts are much the same thing, just with a different way of gripping the surrounding material.
Are there any relative strengtsh/weaknesses of each that would be handy for me to be forewarned about? From the looks of it, a threaded insert looks more prone to slipping inside the hole... does it need to be glued in? To install, I guess I drill a pilot hole through the back panel and into the cabinet where the insert will go, then drill out a large enough hole for the insert or t-nut to fit in. |
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#7 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Threaded inserts as shown by Zia are your best bet, It would pobably only take one screwing an unscrewing to screw MDF.
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sydney
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#9 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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aka zman01
Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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Billyo,
I am attaching a close up of a typical threaded insert - please note that the "nose" of the insert is slightly narrower than the body. For the hole for the insert, make sure it's big enough for the nose of the insert to drop in a few mm but then rest of it is tight enough for the threads to get a grip into the MDF. Also make sure that you drop the insert straight - if it is at an angle, then the whole insert will get screwed in at an angle. When you are sure that you have the threaded insert straight and the threads have a bit of grip so that when you screw it bites in the MDF and starts to go in, use the right size of Allen key/hex key to screw in. Make sure that the insert goes in fully, no harm if it goes in extra 1-2 mm; if a part of it is sticking out, you might not have a good seal for the back panel. I also suggest practicing on some spare MDF a few times till you get the hang of it. A tool like the dowel master can be helpful to get the spacing right and screw holes straight. -Zia |
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