DIY veneer, any tips?

[chrisb]

I generally work with paper backed sheet veneers, and the iron-on method works like a charm.
After careful layout and marking for grain pattern matching/wrapping, trim slightly over sized, apply a light coat of slow tack set yellow or white PVA glue with velour paint roller to each surface and let dry to touch ( 10-15 minutes). Then align pieces on pre-marked panels, and apply even firm pressure with clothes iron set to high. Don't worry too much about scorch marks - they'll sand out. Trim all edges with razor knife, 2" chisel or plane iron before proceeding to next panel surface. Use masking tape to prevent glue contamination when preparing adjacent surfaces.

I've also used this method to reveneer small panels, turntable bases, etc, with solid wood (i.e. no backing) veneers. So far the only part I've found a bit trickier is the cross grain overhang trimming - without the flexible paper backing, the solids are much more brittle and can splinter - "sawing" gently downwards with a chisel or plane iron seems to work best here.

[ddietz]

Forgot about the paper backed veneers. Those are easier to iron on, but then you get the paper line at the edge. I still prefer regular veneer and small areas are easy to clamp since they require few clamps and smaller plattens.

I should also mention that if you have boxes with butt joints rather then mitered corners, the seam usually will transfer through. In that case, you can first veneer with low grade veneer having the grain perpendicular to the final veneer, then sand flat before final veneer. You can also use a stiff pressed "paper" made for this purpose, again sanding flat before final veneer is applied. These two methods will prevent the seam from telegraphing through later, or at least minimize how bad it happens.

[smokinjoe73]

That multiple clamp pic is priceless.

[ODougbo]

That's the press method, could use weights if short on clamps. Not the fastest way to go, but it works and can use regular glue.

[dirkwright]

Originally Posted by jacubus

This should help.
The first time out of the gate you may consider the PSA products.
Joe Woodworker - Woodworking, Vacuum Pressing and Veneering Information Website

I buy from them. He's a good supplier with tons of information on his site.

[evanc]

The NBL veneer from formwood is great. works like paperback and the edge is not noticeable.
NBL (No Black Line): FormWood Industries

available here
Two-Ply Wood on Wood Veneer Stock List

Most of my veneering is done with unibond two part glue and a vacuum press.

for more "production" jobs contact cement works great. It seems to be the standard in cabinet shops around here.

The trick to contact cement is sticks. When the glue is dry on both surfaces and you are ready to bond the veneer cover the substrate with sticks and put the veneer on them. Then remove the sticks from the middle out pressing the veneer down as you go. This lets you get the veneer lined up and pressed with very little drama .

[wintermute]

Originally Posted by ddietz

Nice job Winter!

Let me preface this by saying I was a professional furniture and cabinet maker for a long time

Thanks ddietz! and thanks for the very comprehensive writeup too!!

Originally Posted by smokinjoe73

That multiple clamp pic is priceless.

and I was wishing I had a few more too don't underestimate how many clamps you need if doing it that way!

Originally Posted by jonesy427

Man that come up wicked. I hope I get my speakers to look that good

Thanks jonesy. After oiling a couple of times I thought I had a beautifully smooth satin finish, unfortunately after a few weeks the grain came back up again, but I've decided to live with it (as they were already installed and running). The colour and look is very nice, just wish they were smooth as well. I may redo them again sometime.

Tony.