|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Construction Tips Construction techniques and tips |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Toronto
|
I've read that too much is no good.
But, how much is too much? I applied it with a brush. One coat, so you can't see the metal. Is that too much? |
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sacramento, CA
|
A brush can create a lot of furrows with excess compound.
What I do is use a single edge razor blade rather like a squeegee to create a very thin, consistent coat. Remember, the only useful purpose of the compound is to fill the very small voids between the device and the heatsink, not to create a layer of compound between the device and the heatsink. se |
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
|
All you really want to do is fill in the tiny pores/blemishes in the heatsink and on the chip and then you want a small film so the heatsink can make sufficient contact with the chip. It's almost impossible to get a chip completely flat against your heatsink, so your compound will also give you a little big of leeway.
Seriously, very little. I used to be in the computer hardware scene, and even a tad too much can make your temperatures skyrocket. So keep it thin. |
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
|
Assuming it is the normal white stuff, then unless you can see through most of it it is too thick.
Also important to carefully deburr any fixing holes you have drilled. |
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
|
-> the razor blade trick is best.
I usualy do that to both the chip and the heatsink, when i finish it is at first sight hard to notice the layer. (usual white stuff used by pcguru's) |
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Toronto
|
I guess I used a bit much on the MJ15024's since I can't actually see through it.
A razor is probably a good idea... Thanks |
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Compound hornloudspeakers | angeloitacare | Multi-Way | 39 | 11th September 2011 08:06 PM |
| Compound horns, anyone? | brsanko | Full Range | 30 | 15th August 2011 02:15 AM |
| Heat Sink Compound on a TO220? | DreadPirate | Parts | 7 | 31st January 2009 02:43 PM |
| Hartley compound sub | rdr | Subwoofers | 3 | 2nd October 2006 01:04 AM |
| Compound bias | kooltubes | Tubes / Valves | 4 | 29th December 2005 02:19 AM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.08624 seconds (74.71% PHP - 25.29% MySQL) with 10 queries |