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Old 28th March 2011, 03:30 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doorman View Post
Like Dave says. Have you followed the dimensions on the plans?
Don
And in each build one needs to be prepared to adjust for material that varies from its nominal thickness (ie a sheet of 15mm could be as much as 15.5mm (say) or as thin as 14.5mm. One can even get a sheet with varying thickness thruout the sheet. You need to measure the actual sheet purchased.

There are also potential rounding errors on the plans, and i'm not perfect, outright mistakes have popped up in the drawings.

dave
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Old 28th March 2011, 04:43 PM   #12
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
And in each build one needs to be prepared to adjust for material that varies from its nominal thickness (ie a sheet of 15mm could be as much as 15.5mm (say) or as thin as 14.5mm. One can even get a sheet with varying thickness thruout the sheet. You need to measure the actual sheet purchased.

There are also potential rounding errors on the plans, and i'm not perfect, outright mistakes have popped up in the drawings.

dave


What I forgot to mention is that to optimize cut plans and prepare DXF for export to CNC routing software, I tend to redraw these in my own CAD ( vintage Autosketch). Occasionally I'll catch some dimensional discrepancies or notational artifacts from his numerous revisions remain on sketches published on the P10 site. I note for example that the Fonken127 sketch still refers to 12mm material (nominally 1/2") and 18mm for front baffle. Several years ago we standardized our own construction to 15mm for cases, and 18mm or more as required* for driver panels.

* Mark Audio drivers very thick flange (over 9mm on some models) leaves very little material depth for mounting hardware when drivers are rebated for flush mounting. I generally laminate a small square of 9mm ply surrounding the rear of driver cut-out area to accommodate.
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Old 28th March 2011, 05:08 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
What I forgot to mention is that to optimize cut plans and prepare DXF for export to CNC routing software, I tend to redraw these in my own CAD ( vintage Autosketch). Occasionally I'll catch some dimensional discrepancies or notational artifacts from his numerous revisions remain on sketches published on the P10 site. I note for example that the Fonken127 sketch still refers to 12mm material (nominally 1/2") and 18mm for front baffle. Several years ago we standardized our own construction to 15mm for cases, and 18mm or more as required* for driver panels.

Steven is working from the more comprehensive by request only plan-set.

dave
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Old 28th March 2011, 10:54 PM   #14
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Okay, I'll take the pictures to show you, but it doesnt make sense!

Thanks btw, such help in here!
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Old 4th April 2011, 05:17 PM   #15
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If I'm not mistaken, the back panel wide is 190.2, and the bottom is 229.7. How can both arrive flush? is doesnt make sense, is it when the sides are done?

How wide is the sides when finish (inner, outer and ports).

I have time this evening to build my speakers! First of all, what did you do first?
the sides, then fix them to the bottom?

thanks!
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Old 4th April 2011, 10:45 PM   #16
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Also I'm not able to post the pictures in here.

BUT logically, how can both arrive flsuh when they are not the same wide?


BTW, received my drivers by dave! It sounds a bit harsh, I guess its because my box are not made! lol
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Old 4th April 2011, 10:51 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
A few words from the Fonken-ator:


I've built dozens of pairs of this design over the past 5 yrs or so, and for various reasons ( experimenting with material thickness, driver models, and refining of port & internal bracing details ), several of them have finished at slightly different dimensions than the stock drawings that I assume you're working from.


I don't have a set of said drawings in front of me, but do have about 4 pairs of the Fostex & Mark Audio versions of this design in my room, as well as a tape measure.

Let's assume for convenience sake that you're using 15mm plywood for panels and 3/8" (9.5mm) MDF for the spacers between inner and outer side walls - which are the materials used for the pair of FE127E Fonkens I have in at my desk, and from which the following measurements are taken. (We'll ignore allowance for .5mm thick veneer on all sides)

The finished outside dimensions are 227mmW x 354mmH x 302mmD (9"x 13 15/16" x 11 7/8") . These are constructed using butt joints, with the top and bottoms overlaying all panels, and assembled with the front panel full width - the chamfers are cut after all except the back panel are assembled.



Top / bottom = 227mmW X 302mmD
Outside wall panels = 324mmH x 287mm W
Inner wall panels = 324mmH x 242mmW
Brace = 324mmH x 272mmW
Front panel = 324mmH 227mmW
Back panel= 324mmH x 197mmW

Width of Port spacers can adjusted for aesthetic variation of location of port slots, but using 9.5mm thick material the 3 slots per side need to be 75mmH. There will be 4 spacers per side - 2 between the slots, and one at each end. Cut these parts to 272mm long to provide additional glue surface area and bracing for the fully inset back panel.

If you're overlaying the back panel, the width of outside panels will need to be reduced to 272mm and the back panel increased to 227mm wide. This might be make assembly a little bit easier, but if all parts are precisely cut, insetting the back is not the most complicated part of the fabrication, and provides a more well braced joint.
I followed dave plans, and I still dont get it.
how can the top and back panel fit togetehr, they are not the same size!
help anyone?
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Old 4th April 2011, 11:07 PM   #18
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wow, I'm embarrassed, I didnt thought of putting the side panel, with the side panel "on", theirs about half an inch that not covered. and now I'm being careful, since this should have been obvious for me, but it wasnt!

now, this half an inch is cause by what? is it because the spacers will take this extra place?
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Old 4th April 2011, 11:08 PM   #19
doorman is offline doorman  Canada
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Pictures! Pictures!
If I'm reading this correctly, and you're referring to the two (vertical) front edges of the box, remember they're getting cut off at a 45deg. after assembly anyway.
Don

Last edited by doorman; 4th April 2011 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 4th April 2011, 11:08 PM   #20
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oh yeah and since I dont know how to put up the pictures in here, I can send the picture to anyone asking me :P

thank you and sorry for me noobiness
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