Hi everyone
I have purchased a Peerless 12" woofer , Peerless 6.5" mid range and a PAE 1" soft Dome Tweeter and i have been reading various article and tutorials on the Internet and neaver seamed to get anywhere with them and i was wondering if anyone could shed some light on where i should start and how i should go about building these three way speaker box's.
I have purchased a Peerless 12" woofer , Peerless 6.5" mid range and a PAE 1" soft Dome Tweeter and i have been reading various article and tutorials on the Internet and neaver seamed to get anywhere with them and i was wondering if anyone could shed some light on where i should start and how i should go about building these three way speaker box's.
What amplifier are you going to use ? Which ambient is supposed to be sonorized <voiced> ? Keep in mind that tweeters suffer from any low frequency at high voltage at their input ,I just blew one yesterday, so...I was going to suggest to go to active and use an amplifier for each speaker ...but that is a good way to blow speakers !!!
Ready made and available amplifiers incorporating an active crossover are only the subwoofer amplifiers and the Car Audio stuff .
So the other chance is to go the 'old way' and project and build a passive crossover for the right box (es) and enjoy !!
Editerhaps ... active crossovers are older than passive ones ...?!
Ready made and available amplifiers incorporating an active crossover are only the subwoofer amplifiers and the Car Audio stuff .
So the other chance is to go the 'old way' and project and build a passive crossover for the right box (es) and enjoy !!
Edit
erhaps ... active crossovers are older than passive ones ...?!Hi picowallspeaker thanks for the reply there only going to be used by a old Denon 50 watt amp (PMA-501) and i have bought a cheapy active crossover for them
but after i posted this i found this program from Linear Team called WinISD it has helped me A LOT! i have decided to go with a Sealed Box for the Woofer because it is the best one that suits my needs with only 151.09 liters because i am limited in how big it can be
Not sure about the midrange Sealed or ported?
but after i posted this i found this program from Linear Team called WinISD it has helped me A LOT! i have decided to go with a Sealed Box for the Woofer because it is the best one that suits my needs with only 151.09 liters because i am limited in how big it can be
Not sure about the midrange Sealed or ported?
I'm still finishing a BR or DCR box for a 12",that's 120 liters ,still with the upper panel removable ...so I think that 130 is ok (depends upon driver's parameter and if/how you fell having a deep or punchy...relaxed or nervous bass ). height now is 80 cm ,about 50 cm large , the baffle a little inclined ,and I needed to keep the woofer as low as possible to take advantage of floor reflections , so I get more output from bass to tame its emission to an high sensitivity midrange . I ended in having the woofer above the lamellar and flared (at both ends) port of the reflex duct .
First tries were a simple 3 mH coil for the woofer , having a 6" fullrange filtered with a 47 uF (FR is 4 Ohm) for mid-trebles . Just putting the FR on the box ,with a small baffle to house it ,and you have a midrange in OB -open baffle.
Ob concept is based on elementary speaker functioning relations analysis : when the membrane move , a 'positive' wave is generated on the front ,and the negative -180° acoustic phase inverted from the back of the speaker .
When those wave collide ,since they are phase inverted ,they cancel themselves . So cabinets were invented to keep the front wave and the rear wave separated . Big sound cancellations happen with big waves ...when you play music on a bare speaker ,the longer waves ( a 30 Hz frequency has several meters of a wavelenght , a 4 kHz few centimeters ,if less )vanish misteriously.... So putting a midrange in OB may help in having a natural bass roll off .
). height now is 80 cm ,about 50 cm large , the baffle a little inclined ,and I needed to keep the woofer as low as possible to take advantage of floor reflections , so I get more output from bass to tame its emission to an high sensitivity midrange . I ended in having the woofer above the lamellar and flared (at both ends) port of the reflex duct .First tries were a simple 3 mH coil for the woofer , having a 6" fullrange filtered with a 47 uF (FR is 4 Ohm) for mid-trebles . Just putting the FR on the box ,with a small baffle to house it ,and you have a midrange in OB -open baffle.
Ob concept is based on elementary speaker functioning relations analysis : when the membrane move , a 'positive' wave is generated on the front ,and the negative -180° acoustic phase inverted from the back of the speaker .
When those wave collide ,since they are phase inverted ,they cancel themselves . So cabinets were invented
to keep the front wave and the rear wave separated . Big sound cancellations happen with big waves ...when you play music on a bare speaker ,the longer waves ( a 30 Hz frequency has several meters of a wavelenght , a 4 kHz few centimeters ,if less )vanish misteriously.... So putting a midrange in OB may help in having a natural bass roll off .
I did suggest that you can even skip the box and leave it...unboxed .
Same thing can be done with a woofer ,given an adequate baffle width to overcome the very first nulls ,that can be outnumbered
by giving massive EQ to the very first octaves ...this implies having drivers with good excursion...and a wide emitting area (most prefer dual 12 or 15" ).
I'm thinking in 'active crossover' mode ,because it is much easier to turn a knob than projecting a passive crossover ...for me . Panomaniac started a thread which I find very instructive :http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/110583-fast-fun-inexpensive-ob-project.html
Same thing can be done with a woofer ,given an adequate baffle width to overcome the very first nulls ,that can be outnumbered
by giving massive EQ to the very first octaves ...this implies having drivers with good excursion...and a wide emitting area (most prefer dual 12 or 15" ).
I'm thinking in 'active crossover' mode ,because it is much easier to turn a knob than projecting a passive crossover ...for me . Panomaniac started a thread which I find very instructive :http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/110583-fast-fun-inexpensive-ob-project.html
each speaker acts as mechanical frequency pass-band
a speaker is a 'constrained spring' ,with the swinging element being the membrane and the attached voice coil ,and has two suspensions .
The mass and material of the membrane dictates some parameters ..which are the mechanical ones ,together with the 'suspension compliance' ,then there are the electrical ones dictated by the magnet force ,the windings of the coil .
So it is impossible for a woofer to reproduce (with same output) the trebles -the cone cannot vibrate at high frequencies because of its mass- same for the tweeters and any dynamic transducer .
I first replied because I feel fraternity to those who start building without thinking too much ...but then there is time for guessing...and correcting...then you realize that the time spent in studying the basics will help you to start with hopefully successful projects .
a speaker is a 'constrained spring' ,with the swinging element being the membrane and the attached voice coil ,and has two suspensions .
The mass and material of the membrane dictates some parameters ..which are the mechanical ones ,together with the 'suspension compliance' ,then there are the electrical ones dictated by the magnet force ,the windings of the coil .
So it is impossible for a woofer to reproduce (with same output) the trebles -the cone cannot vibrate at high frequencies because of its mass- same for the tweeters and any dynamic transducer .
I first replied because I feel fraternity to those who start building without thinking too much ...but then there is time for guessing...and correcting...then you realize that the time spent in studying the basics will help you to start with hopefully successful projects .
this is what i have come up with picowallspeaker if your intrested
Iso-Barik 12" woofers ported
6.5'' Midrange ported
1" tweeter
Iso-Barik 12" woofers ported
6.5'' Midrange ported
1" tweeter
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