|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Construction Tips Construction techniques and tips |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
|
I've searched around a bit and my question seems a bit more specific than my searching skills yield. Long story short I'm building a pair of fonken floorstander MKII's for a good friend. I'm wanting to streamline the build and make the finishing process much less time consuming, but not sacrifice long term durabilty.
Is it generally considered structurally acceptable to use just butt joints (no dado, dowels, biscuits, etc.), pva glue, and obviously sufficient clamping when assembling a speaker cabinet of suitable engineered materials (ply, mdf, etc.)? I'm really trying to avoid using screws, and adversely having to fill and sand holes to the tune of 50 per cab. Thoughts? Any advice/input appreciated. Last edited by steviedon; 24th January 2011 at 04:26 PM. |
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
|
I've made many cabs like this, you just need to make sure you have enough clamps!
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
|
Apart from the first couple of boxes I built I've always just used butt joints and glue (first PVA now always Cascamite) and never had a problem. Adding a rebate makes it a lot easier to keep the panels aligned though.
__________________
www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blackburn, Lancs
|
I like dowels, with the right jig it makes assembly a lot easier. I aso use polyurethene glue, it will fill any gaps, so guaranteeing a good air tight seal.
But using butt joints only can be done, I find it awkward if glueing large things, which is why I ended up bying a couple of doweling jigs. Tried biscuits, but found dowels more accurate. |
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Massachusetts
|
I like throwing a few biscuits in to help with alignment during glue up. I tend to use biscuits over dowels because it does have a little wiggle room and facillitates a last minute micro adjustement.
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
just another
diyAudio Moderator
|
Gluing the sides together is easy. Gluing the baffles on is another matter entirely!! you would be amazed at how much they slip around when you start to tighten the clamps!
Absolutely essential to have clamps holding them in place laterally as well as clamping them to the surface being glued... and when Pinkmouse says "enough", double what you think is enough and you might be getting close Long time no see Al!! Tony. |
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Farmington Hills, MI USA
|
Strategically placed biscuits will add significant strength, help with alignment during assembly while allowing for some lateral adjsutment and are much easier and less fussy to cut than dowel holes.
__________________
Kevin(ahcc20)...I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy!
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
|
Hi Tony, yup, it's been a while.
![]() To stop stuff sliding around on a film of glue whilst clamping, just sprinkle a tiny bit of sand on the joints, it'll cut through the glue, yet compress into the wood and not hold it apart. Oh and I'm not saying there aren't many ways of building cabs, I have dado blades for the tablesaw, biscuit and dowel cutters, as well as my favourite, the air nailer, but glue and clamps does work.
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
|
|
|
#9 | |
|
Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
|
Quote:
__________________
www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
|
|
|
|
#10 | |
|
just another
diyAudio Moderator
|
Quote:
but makes sense that it will just compress into the wood/mdf. richie the oversize and flush routing is also an approach I hadn't thought of ![]() Tony. |
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Using screws instead of clamps to glue cabinets | andy2 | Multi-Way | 22 | 3rd January 2011 02:31 PM |
| B & C DE250 assembly | Ed LaFontaine | Multi-Way | 3 | 18th August 2008 03:56 PM |
| BrianGT's 4780NIGC assembly & comment | digi01 | Chip Amps | 12 | 2nd February 2005 12:01 AM |
| Best way to glue wood without clamps? | mr_push_pull | Multi-Way | 40 | 11th October 2004 06:21 AM |
| High-performance glue for cab building? | niner | Multi-Way | 6 | 19th June 2003 12:03 AM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |