I sometimes remove as much as I can using a pump and/or wick, then carefully drill out the last little bit using a drill that is just slightly smaller than the hole. I have a set of numbered drill bits (#61 - #80) and I use an X-acto knife handle as a chuck to manually drill out the solder. The solder is so much softer than the copper that it can be removed without damaging the plated hole.
Hello,
Try this it has worked for me.
Before you remove the existing part use wick and your iron to remove as much of the original solder as possible. If you have any luck many of the eyelets will remain open when you remove the part. Strip a piece of stranded wire, twist it snug between your fingers, tin the very end with your iron then snip off the end on a diagonal to make it sharp. Apply some heat to the closed eyelet and insert the wire where you were thinking of using the toothpick. The wire will act as a long skinny piece of wick.
Done!
Try this it has worked for me.
Before you remove the existing part use wick and your iron to remove as much of the original solder as possible. If you have any luck many of the eyelets will remain open when you remove the part. Strip a piece of stranded wire, twist it snug between your fingers, tin the very end with your iron then snip off the end on a diagonal to make it sharp. Apply some heat to the closed eyelet and insert the wire where you were thinking of using the toothpick. The wire will act as a long skinny piece of wick.
Done!
This is the best solder sucker I've ever used. On stubborn holes, I will re-tin the hole and suck out the new solder. That usually works. A little flux might help too.
~Tom
30% v/v of 69% (commercial grade) Nitric acid
15% v/v of 45% Ferric Nitrate soln.
0.7% v/v of 37% Hydrochloric acid
should take maybe 5 minutes or so to strip the solder (depending on thickness)
If you don't know how to follow the mixture above, don't mess with it... you'll hurt yourself
This is how solder masks are stripped commercially
John L
15% v/v of 45% Ferric Nitrate soln.
0.7% v/v of 37% Hydrochloric acid
should take maybe 5 minutes or so to strip the solder (depending on thickness)
If you don't know how to follow the mixture above, don't mess with it... you'll hurt yourself
This is how solder masks are stripped commercially
John L
OK
best not to quit your day job, then...
This mix is designed specifically not to affect the eyelets, when used correctly. It also noticeably improves the intertrace resistance over stock methods.
I'd be a bit concerned about all the solder sucking/heating/manipulations affecting the eyelets as well... re-work danage is real and significant... easy to cause microfractures in the traces, through holes, and/or substrate at minimally controlled elevated temperatures... that's why room temp wet processes were developed industrially..
Cheers...
John L.
best not to quit your day job, then...
This mix is designed specifically not to affect the eyelets, when used correctly. It also noticeably improves the intertrace resistance over stock methods.
I'd be a bit concerned about all the solder sucking/heating/manipulations affecting the eyelets as well... re-work danage is real and significant... easy to cause microfractures in the traces, through holes, and/or substrate at minimally controlled elevated temperatures... that's why room temp wet processes were developed industrially..
Cheers...
John L.
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The word "This" in my reply is a link. Here's the site it links to:
Digi-Key - K414-ND (Manufacturer - DP-200)
~Tom
Thanks for the link. I will order one tonight. You can never have too many desoldering tools. When I took a break to go back for my doctorate, I was heavily involved in equipment modification. After returning to the workforce, I had no time for it. Thus I am starting over in this field and find that methods of construction have changed and I am playing catchup. I am now semi retired and have time to once again"fiddle about" Thanks for all the help
Hello,
I am able and willing. Please tell us the rest of the story.
I can imagine pickling the entire PCB. I am having difficulty picturing using your pickle juice on a limited area of a populated board inside my new OPPO BDP-93 without splashing everything everywhere.
Be careful not to get smoke in your eyes.
DT
All just for fun!
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Simple method I had be using for years as a hobbyist, I heat the solder to melt. Then blow heavily into eyelet to clear. this method is ok if you wish to replace few components at home. I don't prefer to use pump because they could rip track or pad when gets heated.
ABSOLUTELY stay away from drills on PCBs. Get a decent soldering tool and you won't need to play with drills, toothpicks and chemicals. A Metcal STTC-126 soldering tip will allow you to clean out nearly any PCB hole you're likely to run across. I have had a few problems with some XFX nVidia graphics cards as they chose not to use thermal reliefs so you're de-soldering a heatsink. It just takes a little more time to get it heated up. For nearly everything else I have no problems using the Metcal iron and a solder sucker, sometimes doing a 'clean up' using Solder Wick and not that terrible Easy Braid.
G²
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