Removing solder from PCB eyelets - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 4th January 2011, 07:47 PM   #11
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I use the Radio Shack solder sucker, like the digi-key item tomchr provided. It's this blue pen like device with a plunger, but I heard that this creates static electricity, so use caution.

Regarding the solder wick, maybe you need a higher powered or adjustable iron?

Just a thought.
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Old 4th January 2011, 07:51 PM   #12
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30% v/v of 69% (commercial grade) Nitric acid
15% v/v of 45% Ferric Nitrate soln.
0.7% v/v of 37% Hydrochloric acid

should take maybe 5 minutes or so to strip the solder (depending on thickness)

If you don't know how to follow the mixture above, don't mess with it... you'll hurt yourself

This is how solder masks are stripped commercially

John L
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Old 4th January 2011, 09:20 PM   #13
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I am a EE not a ChemE. I think I will pass. Also I would be concerned on the acids effect on the eyelets themselves. Thanks for the alternative though!
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Old 4th January 2011, 10:46 PM   #14
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Default OK

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Originally Posted by john dozier View Post
I am a EE not a ChemE. I think I will pass. Also I would be concerned on the acids effect on the eyelets themselves. Thanks for the alternative though!
best not to quit your day job, then...

This mix is designed specifically not to affect the eyelets, when used correctly. It also noticeably improves the intertrace resistance over stock methods.

I'd be a bit concerned about all the solder sucking/heating/manipulations affecting the eyelets as well... re-work danage is real and significant... easy to cause microfractures in the traces, through holes, and/or substrate at minimally controlled elevated temperatures... that's why room temp wet processes were developed industrially..

Cheers...

John L.
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Last edited by auplater; 4th January 2011 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 4th January 2011, 10:56 PM   #15
tomchr is offline tomchr  United States
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Originally Posted by john dozier View Post
Btw tomchr, there was no link inyour reply. I would like to know what sucker you are using.
The word "This" in my reply is a link. Here's the site it links to:
Digi-Key - K414-ND (Manufacturer - DP-200)

~Tom
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Old 4th January 2011, 11:17 PM   #16
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Thanks for the link. I will order one tonight. You can never have too many desoldering tools. When I took a break to go back for my doctorate, I was heavily involved in equipment modification. After returning to the workforce, I had no time for it. Thus I am starting over in this field and find that methods of construction have changed and I am playing catchup. I am now semi retired and have time to once again"fiddle about" Thanks for all the help
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Old 5th January 2011, 12:40 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auplater View Post
30% v/v of 69% (commercial grade) Nitric acid
15% v/v of 45% Ferric Nitrate soln.
0.7% v/v of 37% Hydrochloric acid

should take maybe 5 minutes or so to strip the solder (depending on thickness)

If you don't know how to follow the mixture above, don't mess with it... you'll hurt yourself

This is how solder masks are stripped commercially

John L
Hello,
I am able and willing. Please tell us the rest of the story.
I can imagine pickling the entire PCB. I am having difficulty picturing using your pickle juice on a limited area of a populated board inside my new OPPO BDP-93 without splashing everything everywhere.
Be careful not to get smoke in your eyes.

DT
All just for fun!

Last edited by DualTriode; 5th January 2011 at 12:56 AM.
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Old 5th January 2011, 05:10 AM   #18
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
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decent braid twisted to a point plus flux and a hot iron usually works for me, for more stubborn ones I also use the whacking method above
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Old 5th January 2011, 05:51 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by john dozier View Post
Iam relacing some caps on a DAC pcb. Removing the old caps is going well, but there is solder remaining in the eyelets. Wicking does not help. They are too small for toothpicks. What a PITA! Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Simple method I had be using for years as a hobbyist, I heat the solder to melt. Then blow heavily into eyelet to clear. this method is ok if you wish to replace few components at home. I don't prefer to use pump because they could rip track or pad when gets heated.
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Old 5th January 2011, 06:45 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by macboy View Post
I sometimes remove as much as I can using a pump and/or wick, then carefully drill out the last little bit using a drill that is just slightly smaller than the hole. I have a set of numbered drill bits (#61 - #80) and I use an X-acto knife handle as a chuck to manually drill out the solder. The solder is so much softer than the copper that it can be removed without damaging the plated hole.
ABSOLUTELY stay away from drills on PCBs. Get a decent soldering tool and you won't need to play with drills, toothpicks and chemicals. A Metcal STTC-126 soldering tip will allow you to clean out nearly any PCB hole you're likely to run across. I have had a few problems with some XFX nVidia graphics cards as they chose not to use thermal reliefs so you're de-soldering a heatsink. It just takes a little more time to get it heated up. For nearly everything else I have no problems using the Metcal iron and a solder sucker, sometimes doing a 'clean up' using Solder Wick and not that terrible Easy Braid.

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