Toner Transfer Paper Problems

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The newer Staples Photo paper sucks for Toner transfer ...... Ive been useing Kodak Professinal photo paper , this stuff is awesome , I just iron it on , then cool it and it just peels right off just like PNP , so there is no soaking the paper till it disolves ......

I got 100 sheet pack for about $50 which is still 25% the cost of PNP and works just as good ......

Cheers
 
What is the SKU for the Kodak paper?

The newer Staples Photo paper sucks for Toner transfer ...... Ive been useing Kodak Professinal photo paper , this stuff is awesome , I just iron it on , then cool it and it just peels right off just like PNP , so there is no soaking the paper till it disolves ......

I got 100 sheet pack for about $50 which is still 25% the cost of PNP and works just as good ......

Cheers
 
I see , UPC Code , well i don"t have the Package anymore , but I have even used the cheaper KodaK stuff and had no problem .... I believe the reason why it works so well is because it isn"t really paper , it is a type of Plastic or plastic coated paper , it is totally water resistant and will not absord any water .....
 
Why is everyone bothering with all this paper ?? ANY high gloss magazine page will do a perfect transfer with my HP P1005. I do whole 300mm X 300mm boards (12 amps) at a time , just a couple micro "touchups" after the transfer. The magazine paper disintegrates within seconds in warm soapy water , the pro papers I've tried can't even come close to the magazine. Any "pits" on the original paper transfer are cancelled on the second transfer to the FR-4 ... I have 0-1 pit per board.

I've even successfully etched the target lines at 1 pixel wide .. talk about resolution !!

OS
 

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Why is everyone bothering with all this paper ?? ANY high gloss magazine page will do a perfect transfer with my HP P1005. I do whole 300mm X 300mm boards (12 amps) at a time , just a couple micro "touchups" after the transfer. The magazine paper disintegrates within seconds in warm soapy water , the pro papers I've tried can't even come close to the magazine. Any "pits" on the original paper transfer are cancelled on the second transfer to the FR-4 ... I have 0-1 pit per board.

I've even successfully etched the target lines at 1 pixel wide .. talk about resolution !!

OS

I think a lot has to do with the printer .... Ive tried the Magazine paper before and it worked OK but it was far from foolproof and I spent a lot of time doing touchups , with my old HP lazer printer I could use any type of Paper , even plain copy paper and get a good transfer so it seems what works well in one Printer isn"t necessarily going to work well in another printer .....
 
I agree with Minion
I tried a lot of paper , even Staples stock paper , didn't worked at all.
To me only that Staples paper works what I posted.
But the quality not the same any more.
That is why I ask theAnonymous1 if he could send some of his paper even I can test it.
Specially if you use Muriatic acid you have to do good job , otherwise that liquid goes under the toner (protector film)!
I hate to stuff exotic parts in cheap PC Boards!!

Greetings gabor
 
Last time I etched my own PCB's was in the mid-90's when Tec-100 was the only TTP around. I used clear laminating film to do my transfers (laminated normal 20Lb paper to one side and transferred toner to the other) with variable results, including a double sided 5x6 PCB.

Sorry, I can't help you with the paper dilemma, but I ran into this site a couple of weeks ago - tons of great information.
Part of the success may be attributed to using the GBC laminator for consistent toner transfer results. I have not actually tried any of these products or methods yet, but it certainly seems sensible to me.

If you are willing to pay $1.50/sheet for consistently excellent results every time, then perhaps you may want to consider this product (along with the mylar sheets used for coating the toner to prevent pinholes).

This is perhaps the most detailed description and instructions for etching PCBs (without even using an etching tank):
PCB "Fab-In-A-Box" ... The 8min circuit board system

Here is an example of the results:
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Hello
I tried the blue plastic transfer foil (specially made for these purpose) I purchased 8 sheets even the Staples paper work far better! Unfortunately that paper no longer same quality.
I will never buy that blue transfer foil. It is useless. Some ink on the copper clad some remain in the plastic.
If you go higher heat the blue plastic just deforms.
Good paper is the best to me!!!
Greetings
 
So did you tried again the Staples paper how I used to?
Or 100% useless.
I need to each some PC boards these month.
I purchased many different paper because they were out last September. Nothing worked , Kinko's had some great paper but now they switch to. Staples sell glossy paper but to me that didn't worked also!
I will test that soon. I made some copy on those (new) paper..
To me if is thin or both side glossy never worked..
These Kinko's paper thick but both side glossy. They charge for one sheet the paper 70C..
Greetings
 
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