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Old 8th February 2012, 08:29 AM   #101
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Could talk us through the tin plate process?
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Old 8th February 2012, 10:43 AM   #102
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Tinnit Tin Plate 340-188

I used to use this stuff, but now I silver coat instead.
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Old 8th February 2012, 11:05 AM   #103
roline is offline roline  United States
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It is electro-less tin plate liquid:

421-500ML MG Chemicals Solder, Fluxes & Accessories

Just steel wool the copper to be bright, remove any steel wool residue then drop into a ziplock bag with liquid tin and agitated for 5 minutes. I've been using the same stuff for over a yr now and it still does a quick plate. about $35.......
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Old 6th March 2012, 01:53 PM   #104
Krisfr is offline Krisfr  United States
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Be advised that liquid from MG deteriorates over time, and is expensive. I just called them yesterday, and they told me that the shelve life is about a year or at most 2... I will buy some mix as need off of ebay if I can find it, it makes more sense to me.
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Old 6th March 2012, 02:04 PM   #105
Krisfr is offline Krisfr  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roline View Post
I've been using HP LASER PRESENTATION PAPER, Q2546A with good success. By using max ground plane, there is minimum etch area so it lasts longer. I always tin plate to protect the copper.
Hello Roline

Is the board in your post single or double sided? If it is Double sided would you share your total technique with us, I am working on a double sided project my self...

Thanks
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Old 21st February 2013, 08:21 PM   #106
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I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would tell people about the recent paper I have just used. I used to use an Epson photo paper that transferred well and when soaked in soapy water would peal off in a matter of seconds. They stopped selling this paper, and after running out of it recently, I ordered some of this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Epson-Premiu...1477631&sr=8-2

Epson Premium Golssy Photo paper - S042167

It transferred well, and after a 30 minute soak, you can gently peal the paper away. I am very pleased with the final results of the boards after etching.
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Old 3rd March 2013, 10:05 PM   #107
roline is offline roline  United States
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The only way that I know of doing a double sided PCB is to align the artwork through drilled alignment holes. I have not been happy with the results (soldering the leads on both sides, alignment on both sides, etc...) so I have just been doing single sided with ground plane jumpers" stitching" the ground plane together to minimize possible ground loops. I will also add wire jumpers e.g. for bias lines (blue) and pentode 160volt reference(red).
I always add the twisted heater wires running them at least 1/2" off of the PCB to minimize coupling. Where I anticipate multiple wires being installed and reinstalled I will use brass eyelets for durability.
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Last edited by roline; 3rd March 2013 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 5th September 2013, 08:02 AM   #108
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Hi guys,
What is HCL-H2O2 ?
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Old 5th September 2013, 11:05 AM   #109
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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HCL = hydrochloric acid.
H2O2 = hydrogen peroxide.
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Old 5th September 2013, 04:39 PM   #110
ilardi is offline ilardi  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theAnonymous1 View Post
Tinnit Tin Plate 340-188

I used to use this stuff, but now I silver coat instead.
I know this is a little late, but could you tell us more about the silver plate solution that you use?

I use tinplate myself, from chemicals bought off of ebay, and while it plates quite well if you solder the PCBs right away, they don't have a long shelf life. Typical of tinplating, the traces start getting difficult to solder after awhile.

Thanks.
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