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Old 26th January 2011, 03:58 PM   #91
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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who supplies the toner?
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Old 27th January 2011, 04:37 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theAnonymous1 View Post
Sorry to hear the laminator didn't work out.
EDIT: Just out of curiosity, what is the power consumption of the Staples laminator? The H212 is 480W.
Not a big deal. I make an average of a board every 2 - 3 days when I'm 'into' this (which I am now) and, like I said above, it isn't much of a hardship to use the iron.

I didn't notice how many watts the unit was and I returned it the same day. The web site doesn't list the specs either, as far as I can see.
I first let it heat up until the 'ready' light went on, then I left it for about 10 minutes more to see if it made a difference.
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Old 27th January 2011, 04:40 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
who supplies the toner?
For my printer? HP printer, HP toner.
I think I need a new one soon - seems that maybe the fuser is starting to crap out and that printer has seen a LOT of action.
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Old 27th January 2011, 04:50 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by MJL21193 View Post
For my printer? HP printer, HP toner.
I think I need a new one soon - seems that maybe the fuser is starting to crap out and that printer has seen a LOT of action.
All those boards are hard on the toner .. aye !! $70 a pop I am running out as well. My plan is to buy a refill (not HP original ) for 20$ and just use the new $70 genuine for PCB's. I might even try to refill my existing one myself (messy).

If you get a new printer , use the old one as a DIY PCB laminator. I read that the old laser printer fuser will run independant of the printer mounted on a board running on just standard AC. PS , the OEM laminators are junk , I trashed one with just 2 PCB's.

I did get the laminator to work by increasing it's temp to from 160 to 180C(HP toner melting point). This caused the plastic bearings to deform , which really ticked me off. I looked at my HP printer , it has metal bearings and a spring loaded fuser tension adjust ... would make the perfect laminator since it is set for the HP toner natively and could self adjust to various PCB widths.

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Last edited by ostripper; 27th January 2011 at 05:02 AM.
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Old 27th January 2011, 05:10 AM   #95
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When I get a new printer, I will look my old one over to see if it is possible to modify it to direct print to the board surface. Maybe a project worth trying, I think.
According to the manual, the printer consumes 380 watts when printing. I'm not sure if that is hotter than the Staples laminator I 'borrowed'.
I read somewhere about doing the transfer in an oven. Sandwich the board and paper between two pieces of thick glass (I think I'd use steel) and squeeze it together with a couple of spring clamps. Heat the oven to 400* and let bake for 20 minutes.

Last edited by MJL21193; 27th January 2011 at 05:19 AM.
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Old 9th December 2011, 02:15 AM   #96
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I tried the Staples brand laminator ($100) without success. It simply doesn't get hot enough. I ran the board through 4 times and it still hadn't started to stick.

I think I'll stay with the clothes iron. It really isn't much of a hardship and certainly isn't the most unpleasant aspect of the process - cleaning the board is MUCH worse.
I have a $30 generic laminator from Walmart. It works good with my Samsung printer and magazine paper. I have the original Staples paper, but it doesn't work well with my printer. Your HP results look impressive. I will give them a try.
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Old 9th December 2011, 03:34 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by Sawtooth View Post
I have a $30 generic laminator from Walmart. It works good with my Samsung printer and magazine paper. I have the original Staples paper, but it doesn't work well with my printer. Your HP results look impressive. I will give them a try.
What model is that laminator?
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Old 14th December 2011, 04:22 AM   #98
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What model is that laminator?
WMC850HC

It's a generic printer. On mine, the shell was slightly warped, so I need to remove the screws on the back to so that the PCBs can slide through without binding.
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Old 16th December 2011, 12:26 AM   #99
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Here's a section of a double sided board I just made. The traces are 15 mil wide. I could easily have used 8. The via pads are 50mil dia. I used a Club Toyata magazine page for the toner transfer. The board was etched with copper chloride, which never needs to be disposed of.

The printer cost $40. The laminator was $30. They already paid for themselves after 2 boards.
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Old 8th February 2012, 02:26 AM   #100
roline is offline roline  United States
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I've been using HP LASER PRESENTATION PAPER, Q2546A with good success. By using max ground plane, there is minimum etch area so it lasts longer. I always tin plate to protect the copper.
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