I am having my first go at toner transfer and have had some trouble with it.
I am using the Staples Glossy Photo Basic inkjet paper but it is instantly sticking to the iron. Is it possible to have too hot an iron? I have read that the iron should be on the hottest setting so I am a bit puzzled.
I am only holding it on for a couple of seconds before it is pulling the paper away from the board when I try lift the iron off to do the next part. The print is on the shiny side of the paper.
I tried one using tin foil between the photo paper and the iron. It stuck to the tinfoil instead which made it even harder to soak the paper off in water. At least I could move the iron and it looks to have worked well apart from the very edges.
I don't know what laser printer was used, a mate got them done where he works for me. Do any printers put a lacquer on the paper? I wouldn't imagine it would lacquer the back of the print even if it did.
Any suggestions?
John
I am using the Staples Glossy Photo Basic inkjet paper but it is instantly sticking to the iron. Is it possible to have too hot an iron? I have read that the iron should be on the hottest setting so I am a bit puzzled.
I am only holding it on for a couple of seconds before it is pulling the paper away from the board when I try lift the iron off to do the next part. The print is on the shiny side of the paper.
I tried one using tin foil between the photo paper and the iron. It stuck to the tinfoil instead which made it even harder to soak the paper off in water. At least I could move the iron and it looks to have worked well apart from the very edges.
I don't know what laser printer was used, a mate got them done where he works for me. Do any printers put a lacquer on the paper? I wouldn't imagine it would lacquer the back of the print even if it did.
Any suggestions?
John
Strange, when I first started doing toner transfer I used the Staples glossy paper exclusively and never had the problem you are describing. I alway put the iron on the highest setting as well.
Maybe they've changed the way it's manufactured.
I've since changed to thinner presentation/brochure paper with much better results.
Maybe they've changed the way it's manufactured.
I've since changed to thinner presentation/brochure paper with much better results.
I was wondering whether the manufacture had changed.
I also read people saying after 10 minute soak it will start to come off. Mine has been in soak for 36 hours and I am still at it with a toothbrush!
It looks good until it dries and then you see it go grey between the pads and traces where the clear layer is still stuck.
John
I also read people saying after 10 minute soak it will start to come off. Mine has been in soak for 36 hours and I am still at it with a toothbrush!
It looks good until it dries and then you see it go grey between the pads and traces where the clear layer is still stuck.
John
I don't know this specific brand of paper, but I wanted to say that I never had very good results with photo paper.
Actually I use the pages of glossy magazines. Just find one that is not too thin.
My best results were with a catalogue from Roland musical instruments (also on PCBs that were not destined to audio )
For the iron, I also go for "the hotter the better".
Abou the soaking part, I never manage to really get off all of it, and it doesn't really disturb, you just wipe it off with acetone after etching, when you also remove the toner.
Hope this helps.
Actually I use the pages of glossy magazines. Just find one that is not too thin.
My best results were with a catalogue from Roland musical instruments (also on PCBs that were not destined to audio
)For the iron, I also go for "the hotter the better".
Abou the soaking part, I never manage to really get off all of it, and it doesn't really disturb, you just wipe it off with acetone after etching, when you also remove the toner.
Hope this helps.
Hi John
I will recomend you to use Hewlett Packard' s HP Premium Inkjet Coated Paper. The code is HP 51634Z. This is 98 g/sq m paper and both sides are coated. Not a glossy paper, but as my knowledge from Printing Inks business it looks like clay coated.
HP refers a gray arrow on non printing side, though both sides look similar. I must admit I dont remember which side I laser printed the image. Hottest iron, high ironing pressure ( I lean on the iron ), and no time limit ( say 5 minutes ) are the parameters. Use solid black color setting for the printer.
When you soak this paper in water for about 10 minutes, it is then very easy to peel it with fingers without damaging the toner layer on the clad.
I have tested a lot of papers like trace paper, photo papers, heatset printed glossy magazine papers and none give even halfway success.
The link for the paper is
https://h10057.www1.hp.com/ecomcat/hpcatalog/specs/provisioner/05/51634Z.htm
After making some 40 years of break at audiophilly, I am now constructing an opamp using National' s LM4780 a 27 pin chip within 30 millimeters, and got excellent result with the above tecnique.
I will recomend you to use Hewlett Packard' s HP Premium Inkjet Coated Paper. The code is HP 51634Z. This is 98 g/sq m paper and both sides are coated. Not a glossy paper, but as my knowledge from Printing Inks business it looks like clay coated.
HP refers a gray arrow on non printing side, though both sides look similar. I must admit I dont remember which side I laser printed the image. Hottest iron, high ironing pressure ( I lean on the iron ), and no time limit ( say 5 minutes ) are the parameters. Use solid black color setting for the printer.
When you soak this paper in water for about 10 minutes, it is then very easy to peel it with fingers without damaging the toner layer on the clad.
I have tested a lot of papers like trace paper, photo papers, heatset printed glossy magazine papers and none give even halfway success.
The link for the paper is
https://h10057.www1.hp.com/ecomcat/hpcatalog/specs/provisioner/05/51634Z.htm
After making some 40 years of break at audiophilly, I am now constructing an opamp using National' s LM4780 a 27 pin chip within 30 millimeters, and got excellent result with the above tecnique.
Hi ouss,
Have a look at my success with glossy presentation paper.......
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/equipment-tools/162498-laminator-toner-transfer-2.html#post2150475
Hi all.
Thanks for the continued input.
I am thinking the make up of the paper must have been changed. I tried a sheet of unprinted and that stuck to the iron too.
Using a few layers of kitchen foil between the iron and paper sorted the job out enough for now. I only had 6 prints and wanted 4 boards from the session. Ambitious for a first attempt I know.
It was a bit hit and miss. Not being able to see the tracks through the paper made it tricky. The toner missed patches of the smaller traces and pads, I redid these bits in marker pen before etching.
The result is far from perfect but will do the job. I need to get a laser printer and laminator then I can use whatever paper I choose in future.
I am just glad that I didn't sneak the paper through my girlfriends expensive laminator. That would have taken some explaining.
John
Thanks for the continued input.
I am thinking the make up of the paper must have been changed. I tried a sheet of unprinted and that stuck to the iron too.
Using a few layers of kitchen foil between the iron and paper sorted the job out enough for now. I only had 6 prints and wanted 4 boards from the session. Ambitious for a first attempt I know.
It was a bit hit and miss. Not being able to see the tracks through the paper made it tricky. The toner missed patches of the smaller traces and pads, I redid these bits in marker pen before etching.
The result is far from perfect but will do the job. I need to get a laser printer and laminator then I can use whatever paper I choose in future.
I am just glad that I didn't sneak the paper through my girlfriends expensive laminator. That would have taken some explaining.
John
No 'staples' here, but I have used magazine covers, and "O" magazine works well - finally Oprah W has some relevance in my life!
Certainly the tempeature IS important. I'm using an OLD German AEG electric iron made in the 1950s - very heavy - and set exactly half way between off and Max. Too hot and the toner smears and gets a fuzzy edge.
I don't soak the paper. Rather, let the iron cool substantially, and when it is just too hot to touch, iron again and this time lift the paper as the iron moves off it. The Toner remains, but the paper comes away.
The only problem is always several pinprick holes, where the toner does not adhere perfectly to the paper. It can be fixed by painting out the 'dots' before etching.
Certainly the tempeature IS important. I'm using an OLD German AEG electric iron made in the 1950s - very heavy - and set exactly half way between off and Max. Too hot and the toner smears and gets a fuzzy edge.
I don't soak the paper. Rather, let the iron cool substantially, and when it is just too hot to touch, iron again and this time lift the paper as the iron moves off it. The Toner remains, but the paper comes away.
The only problem is always several pinprick holes, where the toner does not adhere perfectly to the paper. It can be fixed by painting out the 'dots' before etching.
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I almost gave up DIY through frustration with the iron on toner process. I tried professional toner paper from digikey - absolutely useless. I tried glossy magazine paper - also didn't work.
My home laser printer is not suitable, the toner is too 'thin' so I use a big photocopier at the office (shhhhh !)
Then I tried a different approach. I put the board on top of the paper and the iron on the back of the board. The iron heats the board not the paper. Worked great. Never looked back.
I let the hot board sit under a tap in a sink until the paper is soaked. It rubs off with a thumb pretty easy after that.
p.s. I use glossy magazine paper.
My home laser printer is not suitable, the toner is too 'thin' so I use a big photocopier at the office (shhhhh !)
Then I tried a different approach. I put the board on top of the paper and the iron on the back of the board. The iron heats the board not the paper. Worked great. Never looked back.
I let the hot board sit under a tap in a sink until the paper is soaked. It rubs off with a thumb pretty easy after that.
p.s. I use glossy magazine paper.
I have etched and drilled the boards with reasonable success. For a first attempt I am happy with the result.
The etchant crept under in a couple of places but nothing that couldn't be fixed with a short length of copper wire.
A mate mailed this morning to say he had got me a used laser printer, no more begging in the print shop for me. I will try the magazine paper with the iron on the back of the board next time.
Once again thanks to all for the advice.
John
The etchant crept under in a couple of places but nothing that couldn't be fixed with a short length of copper wire.
A mate mailed this morning to say he had got me a used laser printer, no more begging in the print shop for me. I will try the magazine paper with the iron on the back of the board next time.
Once again thanks to all for the advice.
John
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