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Old 30th March 2010, 10:09 PM   #41
40 watt is offline 40 watt  Canada
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The power connector PCB in the kit appears to come with a 2.0mm center pin, according to the Data Sheet for the PCB connector .

So...it appears the appropriate plug on the transformer needs the 2.1mm inner diameter orifice? I think my plug is the bigger 2.5mm and seems bigger on that inside diameter.

I really should just add this transformer to my next Digi-Key order. 421 in stock. Positive center correct? I trace the tracks and the center pin of PCB connector heads off to the amp power switch.

However, those two pads beside the PCB connector that are unlabeled on the silk, no jumper outline like the other jumpers, are a bit of a mystery. i wonder what they are for? AC pads for some optional device?

But dang...$13.06 for the wall wart could also acquire a couple of nice Nichicon KG Gold Tunes for my active crossover power supply.

Last edited by 40 watt; 30th March 2010 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 30th March 2010, 10:22 PM   #42
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40 watt & all,

MPJA, Inc.

Item #18249 PA, A !6.5 VAC wall wart...2.4 A...$6.95 + S&H

No need to worry about "enough" power. Get a power cord and put it all in one case...

Quote:
A]: "...more power, Scotty!"

B]: "...she can't take much more of this, Captain!"

C]: "...Beam me up Scotty...there's no intelligent life here!"
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Old 30th March 2010, 10:53 PM   #43
40 watt is offline 40 watt  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed LaFontaine View Post
40 watt & all,

MPJA, Inc.

Item #18249 PA, A !6.5 VAC wall wart...2.4 A...$6.95 + S&H

No need to worry about "enough" power. Get a power cord and put it all in one case...
Ooooooh!!! Light bulbs went off! So those two pads to the external side of the PCB connector could accept the pigtails from the nekked transformer output wires or a typical IEC socket and a computer type power cord with the transformer in the case. No shortage of those.

I need to rethink my case. I'm making one from scratch anyway and was about half-way through. Going for a matched appearance with my chip amp case might be nice. I was planning on veneering the jig case to match my chip amp so why not have other appearance features match, like size and rear connects.
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Old 30th March 2010, 11:07 PM   #44
40 watt is offline 40 watt  Canada
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16VAC X 1.40=22.4VDC post rectifier diodes.

The caps should be alright with that. We only need 1 watt though. I still wonder 840 milivolts 12VAC would produce the needed watt.

12VACX1.4=16.8VDC at 840mA would produce?...Oh dear..I better search the forums for the math formulas. The dreaded moment of audio math has dawned...

Don't tell me though! [because I should know at least this basic math for this hobby]
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Old 31st March 2010, 04:19 AM   #45
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Default Snap-In panel mount led holder

Rat Shack # 276-079, black plastic, but much nicer than a loose led peaking its green head through a hole. peek-a-boo!

The specifics: 5mm dia. led X 6.5mm (1/4") hole

Quote:
Ooooooh!!! Light bulbs went off!
I do that to people

I'm gonna use an 18 VAC transformer and DARE the caps to fail...

Last edited by Ed LaFontaine; 31st March 2010 at 04:22 AM.
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Old 31st March 2010, 11:23 PM   #46
40 watt is offline 40 watt  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed LaFontaine View Post

I'm gonna use an 18 VAC transformer and DARE the caps to fail...

Awww...you just want to have a test result where you can say: "See! My full range driver really IS 105db efficient!"
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Old 29th April 2010, 05:17 AM   #47
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what is the digikey part number for the (J5) mic input jack for the holes are smaller or do I just need to drill them out and use the same as the input and output part #
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Old 20th May 2010, 07:17 PM   #48
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Default two holes for what

There are two holes parallel to the left of the AC inlet with no component info , so I am taking it to be a board jumper. Yet I want to be sure what goes there
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Old 20th May 2010, 09:20 PM   #49
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mcmahan48

The 2 unmarked holes adjacent to "J2" should not get a jumper. To do so would short the AC input. I can only speculate they could be used to provide AC to an off-board location.
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Old 20th May 2010, 09:23 PM   #50
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Quote:
...or do I just need to drill them out and use the same as the input and output part #
J3, J5 & J6 use the same part.
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