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Old 3rd March 2010, 06:38 PM   #11
Netlist is offline Netlist  Belgium
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A real hot iron doesn't heat up the case internals as much as a not-so-hot iron because you can work faster.
That and a lot of flux + braid is how I would do it.
Actually, that's how I did it quite a lot of times in the past.
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Old 3rd March 2010, 06:50 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by oshifis View Post
Heat... well, this is the problem. The big mass of the enclosure conducts away the heat from the tip of my soldering iron. Perhaps a gas torch would do, but I am afraid that I damage the internals...
Back in the day, I worked for a company that manufactured crystal oscillators like the one you have. To seal the cans, we used a very large soldering iron (I believe they were 250 watt Wellers). It was the largest pencil type iron I have seen to date. To open it, we used a saw (dremel tool with abrasive disk will work) around about 3/8-1/2 inch above the bottom of the can to saw the top part off. The remaining part of the top can can then be removed by alternating heat with the iron and movement of the remaining piece(s).
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Old 25th March 2010, 03:24 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by oshifis View Post
Heat... well, this is the problem. The big mass of the enclosure conducts away the heat from the tip of my soldering iron. Perhaps a gas torch would do, but I am afraid that I damage the internals...
This is why you need to use a hot plate, and work quickly!~ a really large soldering iron will be ok, but a small torch will allow more heat exactly where you need it. The worst thing is not using enough heat ie taking too long to work it.
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